Bulletine RC454 continued...
to a near closed position - but leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent the fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce the draft on the fire. With an- thracite there will be short blue flames above the coal, except when the fire is started or a new charge is added. If, however, there is no flame then the fire needs more air from the bot- tom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycle and needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth it is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open the stove pipe damper and turn the thermostat damper to high, which will al- low the fire to burn off any accumulated gases. Open the feed door, and with a small rake, hoe, or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being careful not to seal off the top. Close the feed door, but leave the spin damper (or thermostat) open for a few minutes until the volatile gases have burned off. It is not
BANKING THE FIRE:
For extended operation, such as overnight, the fire will need to be banked. To do so heap coal up along the sides and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a longer period of time. The intensity of the fire will also be reduced without letting it go out. Follow the same procedure as for refueling. If possible, avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading, let the fire establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your damper and automatic control to the point where the house does not become too cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough before retiring or leaving that you can make necessary adjust- ments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) open the ash door and stove pipe damper and close the spin damper under the door to get a good draft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer of dry coal over the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after
MASONRY CHIMNEY
necessary to shake down the ashes each time you refuel the furnace. Experience will be your best teacher.
the fresh coal has become well ignited shake the grate (just a little), refuel.
Masonry Chimneys have several positive attributes: If properly built, they are quite durable, and most homeowners consider
flue outlet. For example, do not expect a wood burning stove or furnace to function properly if installed into a chimney with a
DR6 - 6” Draft Regulator - Optional kit
In the unlikely event that your heater “overfires” (a condition evidenced by elbows, stove pipes, and connectors glowing red in appearance or otherwise discoloring), then your installation is subject to excessive draft created by either a chimney too tall or too great in diameter in conjunction with its height, or some other factor of an indeterminate cause. In this event, you should install a barometric draft regulator. Such installation will preclude any
Barometric draft regulators are generally avail- able where you purchased your stove or may be ordered directly from United States Stove Company at a nominal charge.
B36TK - Thermodisc kit for b36 blower - Optional
Wish your blower would turn ON and OFF as the heater gets warm and cold? It can with this optional kit from U.S. Stove. It connects in line with your power supply cord and mounts to the back of the heater. When the snap disc reaches 120 degrees, the blower automatically turns ON and turns itself OFF if it reaches 90 de- grees. See your Dealer for details or call U.S. Stove directly.
them more attractive perhaps than a non- enclosed factory built chimney. And, if the chimney is located within the confines of the house (that is, not attached to an exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer and continue to release the heat long after the fire has died. Masonry chim- neys have many disadvantages though.
Masonry chimneys constructed on an exterior wall are exposed to cold outdoor temperatures, promoting greater heater loss, higher accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft which leads to poorer heater or furnace performance.
When considering a masonry chimney, round tiles are preferable to square or rectangular, as round tiles have much better airflow characteristics and are far easier to clean. Unfortunately, most North American chimneys use square or rectan- gular tile liners that are really designed for open fireplaces, not stoves or furnaces. Of most importance, second only to overall chimney height, is the diameter of the flue liner itself. In most instances, it should be sized to the appliance; i.e., 6” flue outlet on the appliance requires a 6” flue. The inner diameter should never be less than the flue outlet diameter and should never be greater than 50% of the appliance
flue liner greater than 50% the appliance outlet
Masonry chimneys built of concrete blocks without flue liners of at least 5/8” fireclay do not meet modern building codes. A solid fuel appliance must not be joined to a chimney flue which is connected to another appliance burning other fuels.
If your chimney has a typically oversized flue liner of 8x12 inches or greater, or if it is unlined, it will be necessary for you to reline the chimney, using many of the modern approved and economical methods such as stainless steel, castable refractory, or properly sized fireclay linings.
If you have any question regarding vent- ing your appliance, feel free to contact the factory at the address and phone number on this Owner’s Manual. You may also contact NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) and request NFPA Standard 211 (1984 Edition). Their address is Battery March Park, Quincy, Massachusetts 02269. Another helpful publication is NFPA Stan- dard 908, available at the same address. Specify 1984 Edition on either of the above publications.
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