Encore Woodburning Stove
Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than 143° C (290° F). Condensed creosote is volatile, and can generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote condensation - so use whatever combination of installa- tion features and operational steps will encourage good draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a quali- fied installer and check local and national codes for recommended chimney size.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air- dried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood. This reduces the amount that reaches your home and can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois- ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks. The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier it is.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane torch, from the stove, that is a sign the catalyst is seri- ously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to slow the fire down.
Back-puffing
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove back-puffs, you should open the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. You should always see lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is inefficient, can lead to back-puffing, and can contribute to creosote buildup in the chimney.
Draft Testing
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Results are not always instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for a change in the air control setting to have an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you keep track of your burning habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe system.
In many cases, local or national codes require the installation of permanently open air vents, particularly with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these codes to determine specific requirements for your installation.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove; a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it. Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi- tion between the stove and other equipment that sends indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney draws well with all other equipment turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves), then you simply need to be careful with timing the use of the other gear. If you need to crack a nearby window or door to enable the chimney to pull well, that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake to bring combustion air directly to the stove. For most of our stoves we carry adapters to attach to the stove to con- nect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
Conclusion
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the stove and chimney system are in place, you can only vary your technique, mostly your timing, to achieve good results. If you keep track of your burning habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe system.
