TROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the cost of an unnecessary service call.
Your refrigerator will not operate
■Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
■Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped? Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
■Is the Temperature Control turned to the OFF position? See “Using the Control(s),” depending on the model.
■Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions? See “Using the Control(s),” depending on the model.
■Are the doors closed completely? Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way. See “The doors will not close completely” later in this section.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its
■Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see whether the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise
■The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. See “Normal Sounds.”
The lights do not work
■Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
■Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See “Changing the Light Bulb(s),” depending on the model.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
■Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
■Is it more humid than normal? Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
The motor seems to run too much
■Is the room temperature hotter than normal? Expect the motor to run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time.
■Has a large amount of food just been added to the refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. See “Refrigerator Features.”
■Are the doors opened often? Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
■Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled, the ice maker should produce
■Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice? Wait 24 hours after hookup for ice production. See “Using the Control(s),” depending on the model.
■Is the wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up) position? Lower the wire shutoff arm to the ON (arm down) position. See “Ice Maker.”
■Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned on? Turn on the water valve. See “Connect the Water Supply.”
■Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice been produced? Be sure your refrigerator has been connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is turned on. See “Connect the Water Supply.”
■Is an ice cube jammed in the ejector arm? Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. See “Ice Maker.”
■Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow 24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
■Is the control set correctly? If too little ice is produced, see “Using the Control(s),” depending on the model.
■Is a reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to your cold water supply? See “Water Supply Requirements.”
NOTE: If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem with the water line. Call for service.
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