Cutting Large Panels (Fig. 17)
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without leveling and properly supporting the workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece, not through the supports.
Fig. 17
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and lock the setting by tightening the rip fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack 1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood (Fig. 18)
Fig. 18
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of electric shock, check work area for hidden pipes and wires before making pocket cuts.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. 19)
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece when it can not be cut from an edge. We recommend using a Sawzall® reciprocating saw or jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 19).
Fig. 19
1.Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, firmly fixing the front of the shoe on the workpiece. The blade should be just above cutting line, but not touching it. Raise the lower guard using the lower guard lever.
2.Pull the trigger, allowing the blade to come up to full speed. Using the front of the shoe as a hinge point, gradually lower the back end of the saw into the workpiece.
3.When the shoe rests flat against workpiece, release the lower guard lever. Advance the saw to the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing it from workpiece. Repeat the above steps for each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall® reciprocating saw, jig saw or small hand saw to finish the corners if they are not completely cut through.
Cutting Masonry and Metal
Although MILWAUKEE Circular Saws are primarily designed and in- tended for cutting wood, they may also be used with abrasive cutting wheels or dry cutting diamond blades for cutting metal or masonry.
WARNING!
Only use abrasive cutting wheels with a maxi- mum safe operating speed greater than the RPM marked on the tool's nameplate.
When cutting masonry, use a dry cutting diamond blade. Make succes- sive passes at depths of less than 1/4" to achieve the desired depth. Cutting at a depth of more than 1/4" will damage the wheel. Frequently clean dust from air vents and guards. Always wear a dust mask.
When cutting light gauge sheet metal, use an aluminum oxide abrasive cutting wheel or an appropriate blade designed specifically for cutting metal. Set the depth of cut for 1/8" to 1/4" greater than the thickness of the material you are cutting. Protect everyone in the area from sparks.
WARNING!
Dust, chips and grit can cause the guard to hang up at any time. If the saw is used with an abrasive cutting wheel or dry cutting diamond blade, re- serve and mark it for that use only. Before using it for wood cutting, return it to a MILWAUKEE service facility for cleaning and testing.
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