5.Slide the fence along the rails. It should slide easily.
6.Lock the handle again and check fence posi- tion. The front of the fence should lock just before the rear of the fence as the handle is pushed down through its full motion.
To skew your fence:
1. | Make a piece of scrap wood that is approxi- |
| mately 3Ú4" thick x 3" wide x 17" long. On a |
| wide face of the board, draw a straight line |
| parallel to the long edge. |
2. | Slide the fence out of the way and cut free- |
| hand along the line. Stop at the halfway |
| point. Turn the bandsaw off and wait for the |
| blade to stop. |
Rear Clamp
Adjusting Screw
Skewing Cap Screws
Rear Clamp
3. | Clamp the board to the bandsaw table with- |
| out moving it. Now slide the fence over to |
| the board so it barely touches one end of the |
| board. |
4. | Loosen the two skewing cap screws on top |
| of the fence. Figure 27. |
5. | Skew the fence left or right so it is parallel to |
| the edge of the scrap piece. You may need |
| to readjust the fence locking mechanisms to |
Figure 27. Fence controls.
Blade Lead
Most bandsaw blades will not appear to cut straight when using the fence or miter gauge. This is called Òlead.Ó (See Figure 28.) Lead occurs (1) if the blade tension is incorrect, (2) if the teeth are dull on one side, or (3) if the teeth are set heavier on one side of the blade than the other.
If you notice that your blade is not cutting straight (i.e. leading) while using the fence or miter gauge:
1.Check that the miter slot is parallel to the blade line.
2.Check that you have proper blade tension. If the blade tension is correct and it is not con- venient to replace the blade, compensate for lead by skewing the fence or adjusting the table.
gain maximum adjustment. |
6. While maintaining the skew, tighten the cap |
screws. |