Brother 882-D00 54

ABOUT THE NEEDLE AND FABRIC

ABOUT THE NEEDLE AND FABRIC

About the Needle

The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine. Choosing the proper needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems. Below are some things to keep in mind about needles.

•The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.

•Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.

•To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.

•To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative stitches.

Note

• Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

The following table provides information concerning the appropriate thread and needle for various fabrics. Please refer to this table when selecting a thread and needle for the fabric you wish to use.

Fabric type/Application		Thread			Size of needle

		Type	Size

Medium weight fabrics	Broadcloth	Cotton thread	60 - 90	75/11 - 90/14

	Taffeta	Synthetic thread

	Flannel, Gabardine	Silk thread	50

Thin fabrics	Lawn	Cotton thread	60 - 90	65/9 - 75/11

	Georgette	Synthetic thread

	Challis, Satin	Silk thread	50

Thick fabrics	Denim	Cotton thread	30	90/14 - 100/16

			50

	Corduroy	Synthetic thread	50 - 60

	Tweed	Silk thread

Stretch fabrics	Jersey	Thread for knits	50 - 60		Ball point needle
					(gold colored)
	Tricot				(gold colored)
	Tricot			75/11 - 90/14
				75/11 - 90/14

Easily frayed fabrics		Cotton thread	50 - 90	65/9 - 90/14

		Synthetic thread

		Silk thread	50

For top-stitching		Synthetic thread	30	100/16
		Silk thread
		Silk thread	50 - 60	90/14 - 100/16
			50 - 60	90/14 - 100/16

Memo

•For transparent monofilament nylon thread, always use needle sizes 90/14 or 100/16. The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper thread.

CAUTION

•Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.

B-52

Contents

Page IMPORTANT: READ BEFORE DOWNLOADING, COPYING, INSTALLING OR USING Intel License Agreement For Open Source Computer Vision Library SD is a registered trademark or a trademark of SD-3C,LLC Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine DANGER WARNING IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 5Always keep your work area clear: •Do not store objects on the foot controller •Never drop or insert foreign objects in any opening 6Special care is required when sewing: Page Page Laser Safety IEC 60825-1Specification FDA Regulations CAUTION Page Page Chapter 1 Getting Ready Chapter 2 Sensor Functions Page B-58 Page B-18 Chapter 1 Sewing Basics CONTENTS TRADEMARKS WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR Chapter1 Getting Ready Chapter3 Character/Decorative Stitches Chapter4 MY CUSTOM STITCH Chapter1 How to Create Bobbin Work Chapter2 Maintenance and Troubleshooting NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ■Front View ■Right-side/RearView Page Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartment Page Memo •Foot controller: Model T •Always use accessories recommended for this machine •Included accessories may vary depending on the country or region Page Getting Ready Sensor Functions Getting Ready Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Sensor Functions Basic operations B-59 CONNECTING THE SENSOR PEN The right side of the holder can be used to hold the touch pen Sensor pen holder Basic operations B-61 bDisplay page 6 of the settings screen cPress while connecting the sensor pen to the machine dTouch the first point of green dot marking using the sensor pen Basic operations B-63 USING SENSOR FUNCTIONS WITH SEWING STITCH The sensor functions are performed using the sensor pen • There are borderline areas between setting When using the sensor pen with utility stitches, the area and adjustment areas, which allow you Basic operations B-65 Specifying the Needle Drop Position With the Sensor Pen Turn on the machine bSelect a stitch pattern Basic operations B-67 fPress to apply the first point of the stitching width gWith the sensor pen, touch the second point for the stitching width hPress to apply the second point of the stitching width Basic operations B-69 Decorative Stitch End Setting Key -When selecting the Utility Stitch patterns -When the decorative stitch end setting key is grayed out gPress to apply the sewing end point Chapter2 Utility Stitches Chapter3 Character/Decorative Stitches Chapter4 MY CUSTOM STITCH Sewing Basics Sewing S-3 iPress the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the upper and lower threads ■Using the Foot Controller Sewing S-5 bPress to set the automatic reinforcement stitching function appears as when the stitch is selected) dPress the “Reverse Stitch” button or “Reinforcement Stitch” button •To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitching function, press again, so it Sewing S-7 ■If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot ■If the Fabric does not Feed aRaise the presser foot cRelease the black button Do not use adhesive backed Sewing S-9 Follow the steps below when you want to change the zigzag stitch pattern width Press to narrow the zigzag stitch pattern width Press to widen the zigzag stitch pattern width Follow the steps below when you want to change the stitch pattern length Sewing S-11 ■Proper Thread Tension ■Upper Thread is Too Tight ■Upper Thread is Too Loose Sewing S-13 The red guideline marker indicates the sewing position on the fabric aPress to display the guideline marker bUse or to move the needle drop position cPress again to stop using the guideline marker ■Adjusting the Guideline Marker Position Sewing S-15 aSelect a stitch bPress to select the pivot setting Sewing S-17 aPress to display “Needle Position – Stitch Placement” in the settings screen bSet “Needle Position – Stitch Placement” to “ON” or “OFF” cPress to return to the original screen bIf necessary, adjust any settings such as the stitch width and stitch length cPress to lock the screen settings Sewing S-19 Utility Stitches Sewing S-21 ■Using the Image Key bPress to change the thread color of the stitch on the screen ■Saving Settings aSelect a stitch. (Example: ) bSpecify your preferred settings Sewing S-23 See page S-67for the detailed information of stitches bAttach presser foot “J” Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches Sewing S-25 Aligning the Fabric with a Mark on the Needle Plate or Bobbin Cover (with Mark) For stitches with a left needle position (Stitch width: 0.0 mm) For stitches with a middle (center) needle position (Stitch width: 3.5 mm) ■Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot or press Sewing S-27 ■Basting aSelect and attach presser foot “J” cSew while keeping the fabric straight dEnd the basting with reinforcement stitches Cut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm (approx Sewing S-29 cSpread the fabric out along the finish line bTurnonly. the fabric and iron the folded parts cSelect and attach presser foot “I” Sewing S-31 ■Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) ■Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ■Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) dSet the zigzag width from 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 inch - 3/32 inch) eAttach presser foot “N” Sewing S-33 aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “G” cSew along the presser foot guide ■Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J” See page S-67for the detailed information of stitches aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “J” Sewing S-35 When a stitch pattern in the Quilting Stitches category ■Piecing 1/4 inch) aSelect or and attach presser foot “J” Sewing S-37 ■Appliqué 5 mm (approx. 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch) seam allowance dSelect and attach presser foot “J” Sewing S-39 ■Free Motion Quilting With free motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered by pressing , so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction Using free motion open toe quilting foot “O” Sewing S-41 aAttach the straight stitch needle plate (see page S-26) •Notice this needle plate has a round hole for the needle bSelect or cPress to set the machine to free motion sewing mode •Make sure that the quilting foot is attached properly and not slanted Sewing S-43 to display “Free Motion Foot Height” of the settings screen (see page S-15).Press or to select the height that the quilting foot is raised above the aSelect bPress to set the machine to free motion sewing mode eTighten the screw with the included screwdriver Sewing S-45 dFoldbasting.back the fabric inside along the gSelect or hRemove the flat bed attachment to use the free-arm iSlide the item that you wish to sew onto the Sewing S-47 lSew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide ■Appliqué Sharp Curves Sewing S-49 eUnfoldside. the fabric, and iron the tucks to one bAttach presser foot “N”. Sew scallop stitches along the edge of the fabric cTrim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches Sewing S-51 • Use a thick thread dWhenpaper away.sewing is finished, gently tear the •Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement nor automatic thread cutting is selected Sewing S-53 Example: Illustration of finished product Sewing S-55 aSelect a buttonhole stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A” bMark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (approx Align the presser foot with the mark on the fabric, and lower the presser foot •Pass the thread underneath the presser foot Sewing S-57 ■Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do Not Fit into the Button Holder Plate Use darning stitches for mending and other applications aSelect“A”. a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot bSetdarning.the scale to the desired length of the Sewing S-59 Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 28 mm (approx cSet the fabric so that the pocket moves toward you during sewing dCheck the first needle drop point and lower the presser foot fGently hold the end of the upper thread and begin sewing Sewing S-61 ■Attaching 4 Hole Buttons ■Attaching a Shank to the Button aPullsewing.the shank lever toward you before dCut off any excess thread Use this stitch for making belt holes and other similar applications Sewing S-63 fSelect and sew seam “4” as shown ■Centered Zipper Sewing S-65 2 inches) from the edge of the fabric, then stop the machine hPull down the zipper slider, then continue sewing to the edge of the fabric iClose the zipper, turn the fabric over, and sew a basting stitch lSew reverse stitches at the top of the zipper, then continue sewing mStop sewing about 50 mm (approx Sewing S-67 Page Sewing S-69 Page Sewing S-71 Page Sewing S-73 Page Sewing S-75 Character/Decorative Stitches Sewing S-77 Example: Entering “Blue Sky” Sewing S-79 ■Adjusting the Character Spacing bPress or to adjust character spacing Sewing S-81 ePresssewing.the “Start/Stop” button to stop adjustments based on the pattern, make adjustments for each pattern individually and select Sewing S-83 Page Sewing S-85 Select a stitch pattern, then press to change Actual Stitch Pattern Size When 7mm satin stitch patterns are selected, press to choose from 5 automatic length settings without changing the stitch zigzag width or stitch length settings Sewing S-87 Page Sewing S-89 eSelect fPress to sew the pattern continuously again, then press to select the small size Sewing S-91 Making Step Stitch Patterns (for 7mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) You can use the keys with 7mm satin stitch patterns to create a step effect cPress again Sewing S-93 ■Types of Stitch Data that can be Used ■Types of USB Devices/Media that can be Used ■Precautions on Using the Computer to Create and Save Data Sewing S-95 Page Sewing S-97 eSelect the stitch pattern’s .pmv file and copy the file to the computer bChoose a stitch pattern to retrieve Sewing S-99 bOn the computer, open “Computer (My computer)” then go to “Removable Disk” cMove/copyDisk”. the pattern data to “Removable •While data is being written, do not disconnect the USB cable ePressto recall.the key of the stitch pattern you want Sewing S-101 MY CUSTOM STITCH Sewing S-103 Examples of Custom Stitches Sewing S-105 cUse to move to the coordinates of the first point on the grid sheet dPress to add the point indicated by Sewing S-107 bUse to move the point ■Moving Part or All of the Design aPress or to move to the first point of the section that you want to move cPress or to move the section Sewing S-109 you finish entering the stitch data, press The “Saving” message appears and the stitch will be stored Before storing a stitch, press to sew a test-runof the stitch Sewing S-111 Page How to Create Bobbin Work Maintenance and Troubleshooting How to Create Bobbin Work Appendix A-3 PREPARING FOR BOBBIN WORK ■Lower thread We recommend the following types of threads for bobbin work No.5 or finer hand embroidery thread or decorative thread Flexible woven ribbon Appendix A-5 •Slowly and evenly wind the thread around the bobbin •For best results, wind the bobbin so the thread is snug and not twisted jInstall the bobbin wound with thread ■When tension is applied to the bobbin thread Insert bobbin into bobbin case so the thread unwinds from the left side Appendix A-7 pInstall the needle plate cover and bobbin cover with tabs •When installing the needle plate cover, do not allow it to pinch the thread qInstall the flat bed attachment •When installing the flat bed attachment, do not allow it to pinch the thread •When the bobbin thread is replaced with a Appendix A-9 hUsepresserthefoot.presser foot lever to raise the iWith the wrong side facing up, place the fabric under the presser foot Pull the thread while holding down the fabric so it does not move out of place While oPress at lower right of LCD screen Appendix A-11 ADJUSTING THE THREAD TENSION ■Adjusting the upper thread tension Refer to “Setting the Thread Tension” on page S-12 ■Adjusting the tension of the bobbin thread Appendix A-13 Maintenance and Troubleshooting Appendix A-15 •Do not apply oil to the bobbin case Appendix A-17 ADJUSTING THE SCREEN cPress or to adjust the brightness of the screen display cTurn the main power to OFF, then turn it back to ON Appendix A-19 Incorrect upper threading Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the upper threading bRemovemachine.the upper thread from the cRefer to the following steps to correct the upper threading Appendix A-21 ■Symptoms •Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric •Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack □Symptom 1/2 Appendix A-23 lRemove any threads in the race and around the feed dogs mTurn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs Lightly Appendix A-25 Page Appendix A-27 •If the power is disconnected during sewing: Turn the main power to OFF and unplug the machine Appendix A-29 Page Appendix A-31 eRemove the USB media, and turn the machine off and on again Appendix A-33 INDEX Appendix A-35