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FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS

1

Fabric Type/Application

 

Thread

Size of Needle

 

 

 

Type

 

Size

 

 

 

 

Medium weight

Broadcloth

Cotton thread

 

60–90

 

Taffeta

Synthetic thread

 

75/11–90/14

fabrics

 

 

 

Flannel, Gabardine

Silk thread

 

50

 

 

Lawn

Cotton thread

 

60–90

 

Thin fabrics

Georgette

Synthetic thread

 

65/9–75/11

 

 

 

Challis, Satin

Silk thread

 

50

 

 

Denim

Cotton thread

 

30

100/16

Thick fabrics

 

50

 

 

 

 

 

Corduroy

Synthetic thread

 

50–60

90/14–100/16

 

 

 

Tweed

Silk thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jersey

 

 

 

Ball point needle

Stretch fabrics

 

Thread for knits

 

50–60

75/11–90/14

 

 

 

Tricot

 

 

 

(gold colored)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cotton thread

 

50–90

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easily frayed fabrics

Synthetic thread

 

65/9–90/14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Silk thread

 

50

 

For top-stitching

Synthetic thread

 

30

100/16

 

 

 

Silk thread

 

50–60

75/11–90/14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note

Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.

Memo

The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the needle.

Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR” (Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT” 130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.

Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

CAUTION

Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle (65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.

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