Cleveland Range KEL-60-TSH, KEL-30, KEL-60-SH, KEL-80-T Stainless Steel Equipment Care and Cleaning

STAINLESS STEEL EQUIPMENT CARE AND CLEANING

(Suppied courtesy of Nafem. For more information visit their web site at www.nafem.org)

Contrary to popular belief, stainless steels ARE susceptible to rusting.		4.	Treat your water.
Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron and			Though this is not always practical, softening hard water can do much
steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called “active”			to reduce deposits. There are certain filters that can be installed to
because they actively corrode in a natural environment when their atoms			remove distasteful and corrosive elements. To insure proper water
combine with oxygen to form rust.			treatment, call a treatment specialist.
Stainless steels are passive metals because they contain other metals, like		5.	Keep your food equipment clean.
chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize the atoms. 400 series			Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at
stainless steels are called ferritic, contain chromium, and are magnetic;
			recommended strength. Clean frequently to avoid build-up of hard,
300 series stainless steels are called austenitic, contain chromium and
			stubborn stains. If you boil water in stainless steel equipment,
nickel; and 200 series stainless, also austenitic, contains manganese,
			remember the single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the
nitrogen and carbon. Austenitic types of stainless are not magnetic, and
			water. Heating cleaners that contain chlorides have a similar effect.
generally provide greater resistance to corrosion than ferritic types.
		6.	Rinse, rinse, rinse.
With 12-30 percent chromium, an invisible passive film covers the steel’s
			If chlorinated cleaners are used, rinse and wipe equipment and
surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As long as the film is intact
and not broken or contaminated, the metal is passive and stain-less. If the			supplies dry immediately. The sooner you wipe off standing water,
passive film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment starts to			especially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping
corrode. At its end, it rusts.			equipment down, allow it to air dry; oxygen helps maintain the
Enemies of Stainless Steel			stainless steel’s passivity film.
		7.	Never use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel.
There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel’s
		8.	Regularly restore/passivate stainless steel.
passivity layer and allow corrosion to occur.
1.	Mechanical abrasion
2.	Deposits and water	Recommended cleaners for specific situations
3.	Chlorides	Job		Cleaning Agent	Comments
Mechanical abrasion means those things that will scratch a steel surface.		Routine cleaning		Soap, ammonia,	Apply with cloth or sponge
				detergent, Medallion
Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.
		Fingerprints & smears		Arcal 20, Lac-O-Nu	Provides barrier film
Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending
				Ecoshine
on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard or soft water.
		Stubborn stains &		Cameo, Talc, Zud,	Rub in direction of polish lines
Hard water may leave spots, and when heated leave deposits behind that
		discoloration		First Impression
if left to sit, will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel. Other
		Grease & fatty acids,		Easy-off, De-Grease	Excellent removal on all finishes
deposits from food preparation and service must be properly removed.
		blood, burnt-on-foods		It Oven Aid
Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table
		Grease & oil		Any good	Apply with sponge or cloth
salt. One of the worst chloride perpetrators can come from household and				commercial detergent
industrial cleaners.		Restoration/Passivation		Benefit, Super Sheen
So what does all this mean? Don’t Despair!
		Review
Here are a few steps that can help prevent stainless steel rust.
		1.	Stainless steels rust when passivity (film-shield) breaks down as a
1.	Use the proper tools.
			result of scrapes, scratches, deposits and chlorides.
	When cleaning stainless steel products, use non-abrasive tools. Soft	2.	Stainless steel rust starts with pits and cracks.
	cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm steel’s passive layer.
		3.	Use the proper tools. Do not use steel pads, wire brushes or scrapers
	Stainless steel pads also can be used but the scrubbing motion must
	be in the direction of the manufacturers’ polishing marks.		to clean stainless steel.
2.	Clean with the polish lines.	4.	Use non-chlorinated cleaners at recommended concentrations. Use
	Some stainless steel comes with visible polishing lines or “grain.”		only chloride- free cleaners.
		5.	Soften your water. Use filters and softeners whenever possible.
	When visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion parallel to the
	lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and use a soft cloth	6.	Wipe off cleaning agent(s) and standing water as soon as possible.
	or plastic scouring pad.		Prolonged contact causes eventual problems.

3.Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners.

While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry is providing an ever-increasing choice of non-chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of chloride content in the cleaner used, contact your cleaner supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if they have an alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salts; it also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.

To learn more about chloride-stress corrosion and how to prevent it, contact the equipment manufacturer or cleaning materials supplier.

Developed by Packer Engineering, Naperville, Ill., an independent testing laboratory.