BURNING COAL IN YOUR WONDERCOAL CIRCULATOR
Your Wondercoal is capable of burning both | properly burned. Before refueling, take the | |
bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is | time to break up the cone a little with a poker, | |
the best coal fuel because its long even burn | especially if it has caked over or formed a | |
time, high heat output, and cleanliness make | crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as this | |
it a good choice for the home. However, keep | increases the chances of forming clinkers. | |
in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to use | When shaking the grate be gentle. Just a few | |
and requires more care and patience. | short movements - front to rear - are better | |
| than a lot of agitation. The objective is to | |
SIZE OF COAL: Most sizes of bituminous | remove a small amount of the ashes without | |
coal will work in your Wondercoal Heater; for | disturbing the fire. Stop when you see a glow | |
best results we recommend large nut coal to | in the ashes or the first red coals fall into the | |
small egg coal | ash pan. Excessive shaking wastes fuel and | |
When burning anthracite, use egg or broken | can expose the grate to very high tempera- | |
with sizes between | tures which can cause warpage or burnout. | |
that it is important to the life of your stove to buy |
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coal which has been sized and cleaned. | For overnight operation (long duration burn | |
Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other | time) shake the fire and add coal, retaining | |
materials. | your center cone. Once | the volatiles are |
| burned off close the feed door and adjust your | |
STOVE OPERATION: All coal fires should be | stove pipe damper. Then adjust your thermo- | |
started with wood which will allow the fire to get | stat to the desired heat level. | |
hot enough to ignited the coal. The Best |
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ignition fires utilize dry pine or other resinous | You will have more MAINTENANCE with | |
soft woods as kindling, with hard wood (oak, | bituminous than with anthracite coal as more | |
hickory, ash) added to increase the heat prior | soot will collect on heating surfaces and in | |
to adding the coal. | pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning. | |
BITUMINOUS: Once your kindling and wood | ANTHRACITE: Before starting the fire open | |
fire has produced a bed of well established | the stove pipe damper, turn the automatic | |
coals start adding coal in layers allowing each | thermostat to high, open the ash pit door and | |
to ignite before adding more. Bituminous has | feed door, place newspaper and finely split | |
a high volatile content and, as a result, should | kindling on the grate, light the paper, add larger | |
be fired with the "conical method" - with the | hard wood after the kindling is burning brightly. | |
highest portion of your firebed in the center of | CAUTION: Never use gasoline, lantern | |
the firebox. The first flames will be long and | fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or | |
generally orange or yellow and produce quite | other flammable liquids to start or freshen | |
a bit of smoke. As the gases burn off the | up a fire in this heater. | Place the larger |
flames become shorter, change color and | pieces of wood on the fire so that are slightly | |
produce less smoke. | separated and form a level for the addition of | |
| coal. It will take 10 to 20 minutes before this | |
Once the fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add | wood is thoroughly ignited. Adding coal too | |
coal to the center of the firebox forming the | soon will cut the air supply and smother the | |
cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat to | fire. |
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drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence |
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created increases the burn efficiency. You will | Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller | |
have to experiment with your particular setup | chunks) to the wood fire, being careful not to | |
as no two chimney's and installations are | disturb it too much or cut off the draft. Then, | |
going to be the same. Just remember to allow | add a second heavier layer after the coal is | |
enough secondary air to enter and keep your | ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a | |
stove pipe damper open so that volatiles are | third layer to bring the coal up to the top of the |
front liner (not above!). Be sure you have closed your ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure you leave a red spot of glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that you have not smothered the fire and to help ignite the gases given off by the new charge. A deep charge will give a more heat and a longer fire but it may take one to two hours before the whole bed is fully ignited.
When the fire is well established and the room is becoming warm, partially close the dampers. You will have to experiment with your particular setting of all dampers and controls as your chimney provides the draft necessary to not only exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air into the heater as well - and no two chimney's perform the same. Under ideal draft conditions you should be able to turn the secondary air supply on the feed door to a near closed position - but leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent the fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce the draft on the fire. With anthracite you will see short blue flames above the coal, except when the fire is started or a new charge is added. If, however, there is no flame then the fire needs more air from the bottom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycle and needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth it is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open your stove pipe damper and turn your thermostat damper to high, which will allow the fire to burn off any accumulated gases. Open the feed door, and with a small rake, hoe or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being careful not to seal off the top. Close the feed door but leave the spin damper (Fig. 9) open for a few minutes until the until the volatile gases have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the ashes each time you refuel your Wondercoal. Experience will be your best teacher.
BANKING THE FIRE: For extended operation, such as overnight, you will need to bank the fire. To do so heap coal up along the sides and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a longer period of time. You will also reduce the intensity of the fire without letting it go out. Follow the same procedure as for refueling. If possible, avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading let the fire establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your damper and automatic control to the point where the house does not become too cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough before retiring or leaving that you can make necessary adjustments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, you should (1) open the ash door and stove pipe damper and close the spin damper (Fig. 9) on the door to get a good enough draft through the grate. (2) Place a thin layer of dry coals over the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) After the fresh coal has become well ignited shake the grate (just a little) and you will be ready to refuel.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous coal, sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes called channel or candle coal). NEVER burn wax or chemically impregnated sawdust logs - their intended use is for fireplaces only.
A draft reading of
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Fig. 9
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