probable that the component has inadequate isolation. Solutions include, changing components or permanently adding an external isolated power supply (Call Autosound 2000 at
SUMMATION
During the design stage of your vehicles, try to avoid using extra batteries and high output alternators. Extra batteries are nothing but loads as soon as the engine is started and high output alternators usually make more noise than stock alterna- tors. Also, extra batteries installed in the trunk of a car will ALWAYS force extra ripple current to flow over the car.
Install Transient Storage as close to the power supply input of your amplifier as possible. The big caps will feed the switching power supplies of your amps and minimize the inductive losses in your power wiring. Plus, they will help your peak system response.
In problem cases, we highly recommend the use of twisted pair cable rather than coaxial cable for RCA leads. This practice will greatly minimize cable induced noise - especially in four channel amps!
Don’t forget that your system is only as good as its worst component. Do NOT use components with inadequate power supply isolation or you will be asking for problems.
The best electrical ground on a car is the CHASSIS of the car. Do NOT run ground leads up to th
e case of the alternator or the negative battery post. Keep ALL ground leads as short as possible.
With properly isolated components, it does NOT matter where the component is grounded. With inadequately isolated components, it matters! With poorly isolated components, different grounds can cause different noises.
The deck is the signal reference ground for the entire sound system. The deck usually has THREE connections to the car’s chassis: The black ground lead, the base of the antenna, and the
Amplifiers are usually designed with adequate power supply isolation. This means that it should not matter where a deck is grounded. (Decks are grounded three times and amps float. This is car audio!)
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