INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA: To insure sufficient ventilation |
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and combustion air supply, proper clearances from the water heater |
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must be maintained. See “Locating the New Water Heater” section. |
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Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning materials, or |
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flammable liquids, etc. must not be placed against or adjacent to |
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the water heater which can cause a fire. |
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ANODE ROD INSPECTION
The
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life of the water heater by protecting the
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the anode rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. The parts list includes a special anode rod that can be ordered if water odor or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system may require special filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three years and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode rod dictates its replacement. NOTE: artificially softened water requires the anode rod to be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
*The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
*Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be replaced. NOTE: Whether
In replacing the anode:
1.Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2.Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the water tank.
3.Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank (Refer to “Draining and Flushing” for proper procedures). Close drain valve.
4.Remove old anode rod.
5.Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install new anode rod.
6.Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet to purge air from water system. Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if found.
Restart the water heater as directed under “Operating Your Water Heater.” See the Repair Parts Illustration for anode rod location.
ANODE ROD DEPLETION DETAIL.
FIGURE 23.
When checking the
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
If the
Draining
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during freezing temperatures. Also periodic draining and cleaning of sediment from the tank may be necessary.
1.Set the blower switch to the “OFF” position.
2.CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3.OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for draining.
4.Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an adequate drain.
5.OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.
NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate to an adequate drain.
6.CLOSE the drain valve.
7.Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
8.Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see “Lighting Instructions” in this manual to restart the water heater.
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