Ampliﬁer heatsink overheating, Low output power

AFTER INSTALLATION

Ampliﬁer heatsink overheating:

The ampliﬁers will shut down when the heatsink temperature reaches 80 degrees centigrade, and turn back on once the unit has cooled down below that point.

Causes of overheating:

1 - Inadequate cooling - relocate or remount to provide better natural airﬂow over the ﬁns.

2 - Driving high power levels into low impedances - back off on the volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the ampliﬁer with less than the recommended loudspeaker impedance.

Low output power:

1 - Check that level controls have been set up properly.

2 - Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured at the ampliﬁer’s +12 volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more. 3 - Check all +12 volt and ground connections.

Fuses blowing:

1 - The use of loudspeaker impedances below the recommended minimums will draw more current - check.

2 - A short on the main +12 volt cable from the battery to the vehicle chassis will cause the main fuse to blow.

3 - If an ampliﬁer fuse blows continually, with only +12 volt, ground and remote leads connected, the ampliﬁer may be faulty.

System does not turn on:

1 - Check all fuses.

2 - Check all connections.

3 - Measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltages at the ampliﬁer terminals. If these are non existent or low, take voltage measurements at fuse holders, distribution blocks, the head unit’s +12 volt and remote leads to localize the problem.

Noise problems: System noise can be divided into two categories, hiss, and electrical interference.

Hiss, or white noise:

1 - High levels of white noise usually occurs when ampliﬁer level controls are turned up too high - readjust according to the procedures in section ”Setting up systems after installation for best performance”

2 - Another major problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy head unit - unplug the ampliﬁer input RCA cables, and if the hiss level reduces, the source unit is at fault.

Electrical interference:

The inside of an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. The multitude of electrical systems, such as the ignition system, alternator, fuel pumps, air conditioners, to mention just a few, create radiated electrical ﬁelds, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and ground. Remember to isolate the problem - ﬁrst unplug ampliﬁer input RCA cables, if the noise is still present, check the speaker leads, if not, plug the RCA’s back, and investigate the source driving the ampliﬁer, one component at a time.

A ticking or whine that changes with engine RPM:

1 - This problem could be caused by radiation pickup of RCA cables too near to a fuel pump or a distributor, for instance, - relocate cables.

2 - Check that the head unit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring for ground.

3 - Try to supply the head unit with a clean +12 volt supply directly from the battery +, instead of using a supply from the in dash wiring/fusebox.

A constant whine:

This type of noise can be more difﬁcult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind of instability, causing oscillations in the system. 1 - Check all connections, especially for good grounds.

2 - Make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis.

3 - RCA cables are notorious for their problematic nature, so check that these are good, in particular the shield connections.

RAB 1450 specifications

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