American Water Heater HPE10280H045DV manual Powered Anode Troubleshooting and Replacement

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Powered Anode Troubleshooting and Replacement

Checking the Powered Anode for Proper Operation:

When dissimilar metals are in contact with water, a galvanic cell will likely result and corrosion of the metal components will occur. If left unchecked, corrosion will weaken the wall of a water heater tank which will eventually leak. Passive anodes are typically used to counteract this corrosion and extend tank life. Passive anodes erode over time and become less effective until they stop working all together, another type of protective device is a powered anode.

A powered anode is an active device that counteracts galvanic corrosion in the water heater tank. Unlike

a standard depleting anode, a powered anode does not lose effectiveness over time. The powered anode circuit is made up of an electronic control, a titanium anode rod, and the water heater tank. The electronic control monitors conditions in the tank and produces a voltage that will prevent galvanic corrosion from occuring. The titanium anode rod consists of two functional parts: A steel body which threads into the tank providing mechanical and electrical connection to the tank and a titanium rod that is electrically insulated from the body. The voltage produced by the powered anode circuit is delivered to the titanium anode rod by a red wire connected to the tab that connects to the anode rod. Current flows from the titanium anode rod, through the water and to the grounded tank wall. The powered anode circuitry will maintain the minimum voltage required to protect the tank steel.

Fault detection is built into the powered anode software. If a fault is detected, an error message will be displayed on the User Interface Module (UIM): “Powered Anode Fault”. By checking the fault code history see “Interpreting the Fault Code History” (p.21), a specific fault code can be read to aid in isolating the cause. Refer to the Fault Code Troubleshooting guide for the list of powered anode fault messages, what the messages indicate, possible causes, and corrective actions.

IMPORTANT: The anode protecting the tank requires power to the unit to operate. Do not shut off power to the unit for an extended period of time. If power must be turned off, drain the tank completely to minimize corrosion.

Removing the Powered Anode:

1.Press the power button on the UIM to place the water heater in Standby Mode.

Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse panel.

3.Open a nearby hot water faucet and allow to run until the water is no longer hot.

4.De-pressurize the water heater by closing the cold water supply valve to the water heater and opening a nearby hot water faucet.

5.The powered anode is located on the left side of the heat pump compartment and is between the compressor and the evaporator.

6.Remove the top housing see “Removing the Top Housing” below to gain access to the powered anode.

7.Un-plug the red wire from the powered anode.

8.Use a 1-1/16 inch deep well socket with extension and long breaker bar to loosen and remove the powered anode.

Replacing the Powered Anode:

1.Apply a small amount of thread sealant to the threads of the replacement anode. Do not get thread sealant on anode.

2.Thread the anode into the spud and torque to 50 lb-ft.

3.Connect the red wire to the tab on the powered anode.

4.Re-fill the tank with water.

5.Apply power to the water heater and press the power button if needed to turn it on.

6.Wait eight (8) minutes for the dry fire detection to run and for water heating to begin.

7.Monitor the UIM to see if the powered anode fault repeats. It may take up to 70 minutes for a powered anode fault to appear.

Removing the Top Housing (Shroud):

1.Press the power button on the User Interface Module (UIM) to place the water heater in standby mode. Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse panel.

3.Using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver, remove the eight

(8) screws attaching the left louvered panel to the top of the unit and set aside.

4.Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two (2) screws from the control board cover located inside the top of the unit on the right side, then remove the cover by lifting up and out.

5.Locate the ribbon cable and disconnect from either CN211 or CN215. Thread the connector through the plastic grommet on the bottom left side of the control box.

6.Remove the seven (7) screws attaching the shroud to the top of the unit and carefully lift the top up and away from the unit.

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Contents HPE10260H045DV 60 GAL HPE10280H045DV 80 GAL Service HandbookTable of Contents Certifications and Approvals IntroductionTerms, Definitions and Formulas Explosion Hazard Safety PrecautionsInstallation Checklist Symptom Cause Solution Potential Installation IssuesPowered Anode Operation Checking the Powered Anode for Proper OperationDry Fire Element Protection Water Piping System Piping InstallationDischarge Line Temperature and Pressure Relief ValveTemperature & Pressure Relief Valve Closed System/Thermal ExpansionAir Filter Cleaning/Replacement General Service informationCleaning/Replacing the Air Filter Routine Preventive MaintenanceUser Interface Module Overview Operating Mode DescriptionsOperational Overview Heat Pump Water Heater OperationTurning the Unit On Adjusting Set Point TemperatureSelecting Operating Mode Operating Your Heat Pump Water HeaterHeat Pump Water Heater Control Board Overview Control Board OverviewSection a of Control Board CN 203 Powered Anode Section B of Control BoardRY 203 Upper Element Relay CN 204 Upper and Lower tank water temperature sensors CN 212 Temperature SensorsSection C of Control Board Section C of Control Board con’t Heater Wiring Diagram Wiring Diagram for Models With RelayFIigure Wiring Diagram for Non-Relay ModelsScreen Message Meaning Accessing the Maintenance DisplayInterpreting the fault code history Accessing the Maintenance DisplayPreparing for the Test IIA. Testing for a Burned Out ElementIIB. Testing for a Grounded Element Element Test Continuity TesterElement Test OhmMeter Heating Element Replacement Relay Number Load Check Pins Energy Cutout ECO Switch TroubleshootingECO Function and Troubleshooting Resetting a tripped ECOChecking the Run Capacitor Removing the Top Housing Shroud Powered Anode Troubleshooting and ReplacementRemoving the Powered Anode Replacing the Powered AnodeValues with 240 VAC input Compressor Check Flow ChartCheck Voltage Resistance ± 5%Powered Anode Check Flow Chart UIM Fan Check Flow ChartFan Check Flow Chart Overview Temperature SensorsTemperature Sensor Resistance Measurement Sensor Connector Chart PinsChart #1 Resistance vs. Temperature ChartsChart #3 Pressure-Temperature Chart for Refrigerant R-134aCleaning the Evaporator Important Do not spray cleaner on the fan motorImportant Do not damage the fan blades Problem Possible Cause TEST/CORRECTIVE Action Troubleshooting Common Service ProblemsCap T&P discharge pipe Operating CostsPopping, rumbling Drain valve, reliefValve, etc Crackling, gurglingFan Connect Fault Heat pump fan circuit is open Fault Code Troubleshooting GuideFault Code Troubleshooting Guide Low Water Level Alarm The tank is not full of water Heat Pump Low Pressure Fault Lower pressure switch is openHeat Pump High Pressure Fault High pressure switch is open Main Control Board Eeprom Fault Main board failure Main Control Board Crystal Fault Main board failureMain Control Board RAM Fault Main board failure Main Control Board ROM Fault Main board failurePower Anode Over Current Powered anode circuit not working Low Supply Voltage Fault Very low input voltageNo Display on User Interface Module UIM Power Anode ADC Error Powered anode circuit not workingDraining and Filling the Water Heater Draining and Filling the Water HeaterCondensate Pump Troubleshooting Condensate Drain MaintenanceDisposal of Condensate Part Number

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