Perlick SDBR48 Maintenance, Stainless Steel Care & Cleaning, Cleaning Cabinet Interior/Exterior

Models SDB/SDP Installation & Operation Manual

Maintenance

Stainless Steel Care & Cleaning

General

Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel is susceptible to rusting. Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron and steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called “active” because they actively corrode in a natural environment when their atoms combine with oxygen.

Stainless steel is a “passive” metal because it contains other metals like chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize the atoms. Chromium provides an invisible passive film that covers the steel surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As long as the film is intact and not contaminated, the metal is passive and stainless. If the passive film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment starts to corrode and rust.

There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel’s passive layer and allow corrosion to occur:

•Mechanical abrasion

•Deposits and water

•Chlorides

Mechanical abrasion refers to the things that will scratch a steel surface. Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.

Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard or soft water. Hard water may leave spots. When allowed to sit, these deposits will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel. Other deposits from food preparation must be promptly removed with an appropriate cleaning agent.

Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table salt. Household and industrial cleaners are the worst offenders.

Preventing Stainless Steel Rust

Use the proper tools. Use non-abrasive tools to clean stainless steel products. Soft cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm the steel’s passive layer.

Clean with polish lines. Some stainless steels come with visible polishing lines or “grain”. When visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion

parallel to the lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and do not use a circular motion. Polish in a consistent straight pattern.

Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners. While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry is providing an ever-increasing choice on non- chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of chloride content in the cleaner being used, contact your cleaner supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if they have an alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salt; it also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.

Keep food equipment clean. Use alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at recommended strength. Clean frequently to avoid build-up of hard, stubborn stains. The single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the water. Remember, adding heat to cleaners that contain chlorides dramatically increases their effect on stainless steel.

Rinse, rinse, rinse! If chlorinated cleaners are used, immediately rinse and wipe equipment and supplies dry. The sooner you wipe standing water, especially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping equipment down, allow it to air dry. Oxygen helps maintain the stainless steel passive film.

Cleaning Cabinet Interior/Exterior

CAUTION NEVER use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel. Do not use abrasive cleansers

or cloths on any interior or exterior surfaces or removable parts.

Glass panels may be cleaned using any standard glass cleaner available on the market.

To clean interior and exterior non-metallic surfaces and removable parts, wash with a mild solution of soap and lukewarm water with a little baking soda. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid getting water on lights, controller and fan motors.

Cleaning the Door Tracks

Keep tracks clean of dirt and debris. Use a food grade lubricant to periodically lube the tracks.

Printed in USA 7 0213