2. When the workpiece is past the blade, the work will either |
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stay on the table or tilt up slightly and be caught by the end |
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of the guard. Alternately, the feed will continue to the end |
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of the table, and be lifted and brought along the outside |
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edge of the fence. When ripping boards longer than three |
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feet, use a work support at the rear of the saw to keep the |
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workpiece from falling off the saw table. |
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3. If the size or shape of the workpiece would cause your |
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hands to be within six inches of the saw blade, use a push |
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stick to complete the cut (Fig. 52) The push stick can easily |
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be made from scrap material as explained in the section |
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“CONSTRUCTING A PUSH STICK.” |
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4. Ripping narrow pieces can be dangerous. If possible, rip the |
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narrow piece from the larger piece. If the workpiece is short |
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enough, use a pushboard. (A pushboard can be constructed |
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as shown in Fig. 57 and used as shown in Fig. 58.) |
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NOTE: In Fig. 58 the guard and splitter have been removed for |
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clarity. Guard and splitter should be used when ripping. |
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5. For longer pieces, use one or more pushsticks to avoid |
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placing your hands between the fence and the blade. Always |
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use care to avoid binding narrow strips between the anti- |
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kickback pawls and the splitter. |
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NOTE: Some special operations (moulding cutterhead, etc.) |
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require the addition of an auxiliary wood facing to the fence, |
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as explained in the section “USING AUXILIARY WOOD |
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FACING,” and use of a push stick. |
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| FigFig. .4857 |
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| Fig. 58 |
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BEVEL RIPPING
Bevel ripping (Fig. 59) is the same as ripping except that the bevel angle is set to an angle other than 0°.
When possible, place the fence on the right side of the blade so that the blade is tilted away from the fence and hands. Keep hands clear of the blade and use a pushstick to feed the workpiece if there is less than 6” between the fence and the blade.
Use caution when starting the cut to prevent binding of the guard against the workpiece.
Fig. 55
Fig. 48 Fig. 56
Fig. 59
21
