OPERATION
COMPOUND MITER CUT
See Figures 36 and 37.
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is used to make picture frames, cut molding, make boxes with sloping sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the miter table must be rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should always be taken when making compound miter setups due to the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are interde- pendent with one another. Each time you adjust the miter setting you change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you adjust the bevel setting you change the effect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The first angle setting should be checked after setting the second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been obtained, always make a test cut in scrap material before making a finish cut in good material.
| 54 |
| 31.62 |
| 0 |
| 3 |
22 | .5 |
|
1 | 5 |
|
0
15
|
| 30 | 22.5 |
45 | 31.62 |
| |
|
|
| COMPOUND MITER CUT | Fig. 36 |
TO MAKE A COMPOUND CUT WITH YOUR MITER SAW:
■Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its full height.
■Lift the miter table clamp.
■Rotate the miter table until the pointer aligns with the desired angle on the miter scale.
■Push the miter table clamp back down.
Note: You can quickly locate 0°,
WARNING:
To avoid serious personal injury, always push the miter table clamp back down before making a cut. Failure to do so could result in movement of the miter table while making a cut.
■Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the saw arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
■Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 45°.
■Align the indicator point with the desired angle.
■Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
■Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut in scrap material.
■Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge of a board is placed against the fence, the board could collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the blade. See Figures 41 and 42.
■When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand or with a work surface level with the saw table.
■Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw blade.
■Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against the fence. Use the work clamp or a C- clamp to secure the workpiece when possible. See Figure 36.
WARNING
To avoid serious personal injury, always keep your hands outside the no hands zone; at least 3 in.
(8 cm) from blade. Never perform any cutting operation freehand (without holding workpiece against the fence). The blade could grab the workpiece if it slips or twists.
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