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Easily made from scrap stock, featherboards (=`^li\.') provide an added degree of protection against kickback, especially when used together with push sticks. They also maintain pressure on the workpiece to keep it against the fence or table while cutting, which makes the operation easier and safer because the cut can be completed without the operator’s hands getting near the blade. The angled ends and flexibility of the fingers allow the workpiece to move in only one direction, which helps slow/stop the workpiece if a kickback occurs.

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This sub-section covers the two basic types of featherboards: 1) Those secured by clamps to the table or fence, or 2) those secured by a wood runner that mounts in the table saw miter slot.

Materials for Clamp-Mounted Featherboard
Hardwood 3⁄4" x 3"-6" x 10"-28"	1
Materials for Miter Slot-Mounted Featherboard
Hardwood 3⁄4" x 3"-6" x 10"-28"	1
Hardwood 3⁄8" x (Miter Slot Width) x 5"L	1
Wing Nut 1/4"-20	1
Flat Head Screw 1⁄4"-20 x 2"	1
Flat Washer 1⁄4"-20	1
To make a featherboard, do these steps:

(% Cut a hardwood board 3⁄4" thick to size. The length and width of the board can vary according to your design. Most featherboards are 10"–28" long and 3"–6" wide. Make sure the wood grain runs parallel with the length of the featherboard, so the fingers you create in Jk\g* will bend without breaking.

10" (Minimum)
	30°
3/8"	Kerf
A	1/16"-1/8"
	2"-3"
	Initial Cut
2"-3"	Kerf
3/8"	1/16"-1/8"
B	Progressively
	Longer Cuts

=`^li\.'% Patterns for featherboards

(top view shown).

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)% Cut a 30º angle at one end of the board.

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