BEVELCUT
FENCE
SCREW
Fig. 28 |
•Adjustments of the miter fence must be made to correspond to the desired angle of the bevel cut prior to tilting the saw arm. The fence is marked for 15°, 30 °, or 45 °. Loosen the fence screw on the miter fence, slide the fence to the desired position, and retighten the fence screw. See Figure 28.
•The 45 °triangle on the miter fence provides for the maximum clearance required for adjusting the miter saw'sangle when making a bevel or com- pound cut.
•Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the saw arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
•Bevel angles can be set from 0°to 45°.
•For your convenience there is a double scale located on the mounting bracket. See Figure 27. If one side becomes difficult to read as you move the saw arm to the left, simply refer to the other side. Align the indicator point for the side you choose with the desired angle.
•Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge of a board is placed against the fence, the board could collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the blade. See Figures 33 and 34.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand or with a work surface level with the saw table. See Figure 31.
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw blade.
Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against the fence. Use the optional work clamp or a
_, WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the no hands zone; at
least 3 in. from blade. Never perform any cutting operation freehand (without holding workpiece against the fence). The blade could grab the workpiece if it slips or twists.
•Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cutting operation just to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made.
•Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach maximum speed.
•Slowly lower the blade into and through the workpiece. See Figure 28.
Release the switch tdgger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece. Wait until the electric brake stops
blade from turning before removing the workpiece from miter table.
COMPOUND MITER CUT
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is used to make picture frames, cut molding, make
boxes with sloping sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the control arm on the miter table must be rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should always be taken when making compound miter setups due to the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are interde- pendent with one another. Each time you adjust the miter setting you change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you adjust the bevel setting you change the effect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The first angle setting should be checked after setting the second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been obtained, always make a test cut in scrap matedal before making a finish cut in good matedal.
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