MAKING A MITER CUT

See Figure 42.

In a miter cut, the blade is vertical and the arm angled. If a kerf does not exist for the cutting path, make one (instructions below). Each cutting path requires its own kerf.

,_ WARNING: Make sure the blade guard is lowered and is working properly to prevent

possible injury. Always raise the clear plastic guard before changing the bevel or lowering the blade to avoid damage to the guard.

If the blade is in front of the fence, loosen the carriage lock knob on the left side of the arm and let the carriage move back.

If there is no kerf, cut one approximately 1/16 in. deep. Grasp the handle and turn the saw on with the switch on the arm. Squeeze the switch trigger on the handle and pull the blade forward across the table to make the kerf.

Release the switch trigger and let the carriage return to the back. Turn the saw off with the switch on the arm but hold the handle until the blade stops rotating. Adjust the height with the elevating handwheel so the blade will rotate freely in the kerf.

,_ WARNING: Keep one hand on the handle until the blade stops rotating to prevent the risk of

injury.

Put the fence in the front position (next to

the front

 

table) and tighten the table clamps.

 

Check that the control cut device is set for

the

 

correct speed for the type of wood and cut you are

 

planning. Refer to the chart on the label and adjust

 

the thumbwheel on the handle accordingly.

 

If the yoke is not in the cross cut position with the

 

blade parallel to the arm, release the yoke lock

 

handle and position the yoke correctly with the

 

yoke pivot latch

on the right side of the arm.

If the arm is too

low or too high, first lift the blade

 

guard if the arm is too low, and turn the elevating

 

handwheel at the front of the table. Set the blade to

 

just clear the kerf or table.

 

To set the angle

of the arm, release the arm lock

 

knob on top of the arm. Use the miter scale above

 

the column to position the arm to the desired angle,

 

and lock the arm lock knob.

 

If the blade is angled, raise the plastic lower guard,

Position the workpiece against the fence. Place the pawls and riving knife to clear the workpiece or the fence, whichever is higher, by at least 1/4 inch.

Grasp the handle with one hand. With the other, turn the saw on, then hold the workpiece down and against the fence. Keep your hand well away from the blade.

Squeeze the switch trigger and pull the blade through the workpiece but only far enough to complete the cut. Keep your hand on the handle, even after the cut has been made and the saw turned off, until the blade stops rotating.

After completing the cut, move the workpiece to the side and turn off the saw with the switch on the arm. Release the switch trigger and let the yoke move back behind the fence. Do not release the handle until the blade stops rotating.

ARMMITERSCALE

LOCKKNOB

YOKE

PIVOT LATCH

SWITCH

release the bevel lock lever, and set the bevel

CARRIAGE

YOKELOCK

indicator to zero. Retighten the bevel lock lever.

LOCK

HANDLE

BLADEGUARD

BEVEL

 

INDICATOR

ERCUT

BEVEL

LOCKLEVER

TABLE

CLAMP

ELEVATING

HANDWHEEL

Fig. 42

45CRRFTSHRN° RADIALSAW315.273731

Page 45
Image 45
Craftsman 315.273731 Making a Miter CUT, Armmiterscale Lockknob Yoke Pivot Latch, Carriage Yokelock, Clamp Elevating