Rip Sawing
Ripping is where the work piece is fed with the grain into the saw blade using the fence as a guide and a positioning device to ensure the desired width of cut (Figure 27).
Figure 27
Before starting a ripping cut, be sure the fence is clamped securely and aligned properly.
•Never rip freehand or use the miter gauge in combination with the fence.
•Never rip workpieces shorter than the saw blade diameter.
•Never reach behind the blade with either hand to hold down or remove the cutoff piece with the saw blade rotating.
Always use the blade guard, splitter and anti- kickback pawls. Make sure the splitter is properly aligned. When wood is cut along the grain, the kerf tends to close and bind on the blade and kickbacks can occur.
Note: A caution decal is installed on the guard and splitter assembly warning of the hazard of misalignment.
Figure 28
The rip fence (A, Fig. 28) should be set for the width of the cut (C, Fig. 28) by using the scale
on the front rail, or by measuring the distance between the blade (B) and fence (A). Stand out of line with the saw blade and workpiece to avoid sawdust and splinters coming off the blade or a kickback, if one should occur.
If the work piece does not have a straight edge, nail an auxiliary straight edged board on it to provide one against the fence. To cut properly, the board must make good contact with the table. If it is warped, turn the hollow side down.
In ripping, use one hand to hold the board down against the fence or fixture, and the other to push it into the blade between the blade and the fence. If the workpiece is narrower than 6" or shorter than 12", use a push stick or push block to push it through between the fence and saw blade (Figure 29). Never push in a location such that the pushing hand is in line with the blade. Move the hand serving as a
Figure 29
Figure 30
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