TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one did not make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following list describes the kinds of sounds and what may be making them.
•The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off.
•Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
•Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may hear a pulsating or
•You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
•As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator.
•Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise.
•Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound.
•You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.
•You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle.
Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions | |
| • The power supply cord is unplugged. | • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper | |
REFRIGERATOR |
| voltage. | |
• A household fuse has blown or | • Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. | ||
DOES NOT | circuit breaker tripped. |
| |
OPERATE | • The refrigerator control is set to the | • Refer to the “Control Panel Features” section. | |
| OFF position. |
| |
| • Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. | • Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. | |
VIBRATION OR | • The refrigerator is not resting solidly | • Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need | |
RATTLING NOISE | on the floor. | adjusting. See “Door Alignment” Section. | |
LED (LAMP) DO | • The power supply cord is unplugged. | • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper | |
NOT WORK |
| voltage. | |
• LED Light has burned out. | • See the “Light (LED) Replacement” section. | ||
|
•The refrigerator that was replaced • Modern refrigerators with more storage space
was an older model. | require more operating time. |
•The room temperature is hotter • The motor will run longer under warm conditions.
| than normal. |
|
| At normal room temperatures, expect your motor | ||
|
|
|
|
| to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under | |
|
|
|
|
| warmer conditions, expect it to run even more | |
|
|
|
|
| often. | |
| • The | refrigerator | was | recently | • The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool | |
COMPRESSOR | plugged in and the refrigerator | completely. | ||||
control was set correctly. |
|
| ||||
MOTOR SEEMS TO |
|
| ||||
• The door is opened often or a large | • Adding food and opening the door warms the | |||||
RUN TOO MUCH | ||||||
amount has just been added. | refrigerator. It is normal for the refrigerator to | |||||
| ||||||
|
|
|
|
| run longer in order to conserve energy, try to get | |
|
|
|
|
| everything you need out of the refrigerator at | |
|
|
|
|
| once, keep food organized so it is easy to find and | |
|
|
|
|
| close the door as soon as the food is removed. | |
|
|
|
|
| See the “Food Storage Guide” section. | |
| • The | refrigerator | control | was not | • See the “Adjusting Control Settings” Section. | |
| set correctly for the surrounding |
| ||||
| conditions. |
|
|
| ||
23
