TROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the cost of an unnecessary service call.
Your refrigerator will not operate
•The power supply cord is unplugged.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
•A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped. Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
•The refrigerator control is turned to the “OFF” posi- tion.
Refer to the “Setting the Control” section.
•The refrigerator is defrosting.
Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 min- utes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
•The control is not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.
Refer to the “Setting the Control” section.
•The doors are not closed completely.
Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section.
•The condenser coils are dirty.
This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. Refer to the “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its high efficiency motor.
The lights do not work
•The power supply cord is unplugged.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
•A light bulb is loose in the socket.
Turn the refrigerator control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control.
•A light bulb has burned out.
Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape. See the “Changing the Light Bulbs” sec- tion.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
•The refrigerator is defrosting.
The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
•It is more humid than normal.
Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
The motor seems to run too much
•The room temperature is hotter than normal.
Expect the motor to run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time.
•A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator.
Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. See the “Food Storage Guide” section.
•The doors are opened often.
Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise
•The sounds may be normal for your refrigerators. Refer to the “Understanding Sounds You May Hear” section.
The ice maker is not producing ice
•The freezer temperature is not cold enough to produce ice.
Wait 24 hours after
•The ice maker arm is in the “OFF” (arm up) position.
Lower arm to the “ON” (arm down) position. See the “Ice Maker Operation” section.
•The water line
Turn on the water valve. See the “Connecting the Refrigerator to a Water Source” section.
•An ice cube is jammed in the ejector arm. Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. Refer to the “Ice Maker Operation” section.
•The ice maker mold has no water in it or no ice has been produced.
Check to see if your refrigerator has been connected to your home water supply and the supply
NOTE: If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem with the water line. Call for service.
The ice maker is producing too little ice
•The ice maker has just been installed.
Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled down, the ice maker should begin producing
•A large amount of ice has just been removed. Allow 24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
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