Sanding and Finishing
Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Move the tool support out of the way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle. Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece.To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe.
Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of finish and buff.
11.4Face plate and bowl turning
Face plate turning is normally done on the inboard side of the headstock over the bed. Larger workpieces must be turned on the outboard side (remove tailstock and tool support base, and move headstock to opposite end of bed - see Figure 9).
11.4.1Mounting stock
Use of a face plate is the most common method for holding a block of wood for turning bowls and plates:
1.Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than each dimension on the finished workpiece.
2.Always select the largest diameter face plate that can be used for the workpiece to be turned.
3.True one surface of the workpiece for mounting against the face plate.
4.Using the face plate as a template, mark the location of the mounting holes on the workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the appropriate size. Face plates are drilled for No. 12 screws. (Phillips and square drive screws will hold up better than slotted screws. Sheel metal screws are case hardened with deeper and sharper threads than wood screws.)
If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can be used:
5.Make a block the same diameter as the face plate, Figure 33. Both waste block and workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.
6.Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid using brown paper or newspaper between the waste block and workpiece. It may work fine if you are using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl gouge can separate the two.
NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful with the adhesive you select. Dry workpieces can be bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue.
Figure 33
11.4.2Faceplate or chuck?
While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable method of holding a block of wood for turning, chucks can also be used. As there are dozens of chucks to choose from, the woodturner should first consider all the different types of turning that will be done, and read reports or discuss with other turners who own chucks before making a decision.
A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy when working on more than one piece at a time. Rather than removing screws, you simply open the chuck and change workpieces.
The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chucks with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
11.4.3Wood selection
Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available stock to use while learning to turn bowls. Simply waste wood for a while practicing turning techniques. Develop skill with each tool before attempting to make a finished piece. It is best to start with dry wood, without worrying about drying or distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try green wood which cuts very easily. As the turner gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and bark inclusions.
11.4.4Checks and cracks
Green wood will check and crack. For best results, leave logs in as long a length as you can handle. As the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches and you should find good, sound wood. Also cut the log in half along the pith to avoid
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