Powermatic PM2020 manual Spindle turning, Stock selection

Deep Fluted Bowl Gouge – 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2", used for turning bowls & plates.

Square Scraper (Bedan) – 3/8” or 1/2", used to create square shoulders.

Large Round Nose (Domed) Scraper – 1-1/2", used to reduce ridges on interior of bowls, round edges of bowls, etc.

Parting Tool - 1/8", used for scraping, making a cut-off, or to set diameters for sizing.

Never allow the tool to rest in one place on the wheel, keep it moving and use a light touch.

Carbon steel tools can overheat easily and should be cooled frequently. If the edge turns blue, it has lost its temper and should be ground past the blue area. High-speed steel tools are not as likely to overheat, but can be damaged if allowed to get red hot. High-speed steel tools should not be quenched for cooling. Honing with a diamond lap or slipstone will save trips to the grinder and keep the edge fresh.

11.3Spindle turning

Spindle turning takes place between the centers of the lathe. It requires a spur or drive center in the headstock and a live or dead center in the tailstock. A cup center rather than a cone center in the tailstock will often reduce the risk of splitting the stock.

Figure 26 shows the basic profile shapes in spindle turning.

Figure 25: Basic Turning Tools

For safety and best performance, keep tools sharp. If a tool stops cutting or requires excessive pressure to make a cut, it needs to be sharpened. A number of brand name sharpening jigs and fixtures are available; however, a woodturner should learn to sharpen tools freehand.

For best results, use a slow speed grinder (1800 rpm) fitted with a 60-grit aluminum oxide wheel (for shaping) and a 100-grit alum. oxide wheel (for final sharpening and touchup). The grinder should be located near your lathe and at a comfortable height. A diamond dresser will keep the wheels true and eliminate glazing.

Figure 26

11.3.1Stock selection

Stock for spindles should be straight grained and free of checks, cracks, knots and other defects. It should be cut 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the finished diameter and may require additional length so the ends can be removed later. Larger stock should have the corners removed to produce an octagon making the piece easier to rough down to a cylinder.

1.With a combination square, or plastic center finder for round stock, locate and mark center on each end of the workpiece. Accuracy is not critical on full rounds but extremely important on stock where square sections are to remain. Put a dimple in the stock with an awl or nail, or use a spring-loaded automatic center punch.

2.Extremely hard woods may require kerfs cut into the ends of the stock (Figure 27) using a band saw, so the wood will accept the spur center and the live center.

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