Vermont Casting 1990 Creosote, Fuel, Back-puffing, Draft Testing, Negative Pressure, Conclusion

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Creosote

Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than 290°F. Condensed creosote is volatile, and can generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote condensation - so use whatever combination of installa- tion features and operational steps will encourage good draft and minimize creosote production.

Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for safety reasons as well as performance. Canadian law requires a matching liner to serve any stove or insert vented through a fireplace chimney; in the US, the National Fire Protection Association recommends one if the flue is more than three times bigger (in square area) than the outlet on the stove or insert. Some localities enforce the NFPA guidelines as part of their building codes.

Fuel

Even the best stove installation will not perform well with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air- dried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood. This reduces the amount that reaches your home and can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois- ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks. The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier it is.

Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.

If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to slow the fire down.

Back-puffing

Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your stove with enough primary air so that you always see lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the chimney.

Draft Testing

An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Re- sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for a change in the air control setting to have an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you keep track of your burning habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe system.

Negative Pressure

Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove; a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it. Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi- tion between the stove and other equipment that sends indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney draws well with all other equipment turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves), then you simply need to be careful with timing the use of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby window or door to enable the chimney to draw well, that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.

Conclusion

Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve good results. If you keep track of your burning habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe system.

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Contents Intrepid Table of Contents WelcomeSpecifications Intrepid II, ModelWhat Kind of Chimney to Use InstallationOutside Air Prefabricated Chimneys Chimney Connector GuidelinesMasonry Chimneys Chimney SizeSecuring the Single-wall Connector to a Masonry Chimney Double-wall Chimney ConnectorSingle-wall Chimney Connector Freestanding Chimney InstallationsFireplace Chimney Installations Above a Fireplace Chimney connector enters chimney above the firepFireplace Chimney Installations Through a Fireplace Wall Pass-ThroughsFloor Protection An approved wall pass-through for CanadaFloor Protection for Fireplace Installations Reducing ClearancesWall Shields Chimney Connector Clearance ReductionsStove Heat Shields Fireplace and Mantel Trim ShieldsAlcove Installations Construction RequirementsReflected ceiling plan Intrepid II Clearance Chart Intrepid II Clearance Diagrams 889 mm Parallel Installations Assembly Your Intrepid II’s Controls What They Do OperationAttach the Griddle Handle Andirons Damper Directs Air Flow Within the StoveGlass Door Panels Two Ways to Add FuelBurn Only High-Quality Wood Surface Thermometer is a Valuable Guide to OperationHigh-Efficiency Wood Burning With Catalytic Combustion Use the Air Control Settings that Work Best for YouHow to Build a Wood Fire Keep it Going Conditioning Your Stove Starting and Maintaining a Wood FireRefuel While the Embers are Still Hot Ash DisposalDraft Management Fuel Draft TestingCreosote Back-puffingMaintenance Tighten the Damper Handle as Needed How to Adjust the Door LatchDamper Adjustment Catalytic Combustion System Inspection and Cleaning When to Suspect a Combustion System ProblemReplace Refractory Package Replace the Stove Gaskets as NeededPermanent Gaskets Adjust the Door if NecessaryAnnual Maintenance Chimney System CreosoteIntrepid II Woodburning Stove Appendix Catalytic Combustor Intrepid II Woodburning Stove Intrepid II Woodburning Stove Please record the following information For future reference Intrepid II Woodburning Stove Intrepid II Woodburning Stove Warranty CFM Corporation

1990 specifications

Vermont Casting, founded in 1975, is renowned for its commitment to crafting high-quality cast iron wood stoves and heaters that merge efficiency with timeless design. By 1990, Vermont Casting had established itself as a leader in the industry, celebrated for its innovative approach to heating solutions and commitment to sustainability.

The 1990 models reflected an impressive evolution in technology and aesthetics. One of the standout features of Vermont Casting stoves was their utilization of advanced air control systems. This technology allowed users to regulate the burn speed and heat output effectively, making it easier to maintain consistent warmth in the home while optimizing fuel efficiency. The stoves featured an adjustable air inlet that provided users with the power to control combustion according to their needs.

In terms of design, Vermont Casting stoves were characterized by their iconic, rustic appearance, often featuring a choice of colors and finishes that allowed them to blend seamlessly into a variety of home aesthetics. The deep, rich finishes of the cast iron, coupled with elegant detailing, made each unit not only a heating appliance but also a centerpiece in living spaces. This commitment to aesthetics extended to the variety of designs available, including both traditional and modern styles, catering to diverse consumer preferences.

Vermont Casting also prioritized safety in their 1990 models. Many stoves were equipped with features such as double doors with glass panels, allowing users to enjoy the beauty of the flames while minimizing the risk of accidental burns. Some models incorporated heat shields that protected surrounding walls and furniture from excessive heat, further enhancing safety at home.

Durability was another hallmark of Vermont Casting’s reputation. The use of high-quality cast iron meant that these stoves were built to withstand years of use, often becoming familial heirlooms passed down through generations. In addition to resilience, cast iron was known for its ability to retain heat even after the fire had gone out, providing lingering warmth long into the night.

Overall, Vermont Casting in 1990 represented a harmonious blend of timeless design, advanced functionality, and a commitment to sustainability. Their stoves were not merely heating appliances but symbols of a lifestyle choice that emphasized quality, elegance, and environmental responsibility, making them a preferred choice for homeowners seeking both reliability and beauty in home heating solutions.
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