
Operational Conditions
Condensation
Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or other hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise. NOTE: This condensation is normal and should not be confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase or decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce larger amounts of condensation on initial
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable metal drain pan be installed under the water heater
to protect the area from water damage resulting from normal condensation production, a leaking tank or piping connections. Refer to “Location Requirements” on page
4.Under no circumstances is the manufacturer to be held responsible for any water damage in connection with this water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or noises may be heard. These noises are common and may result from the following:
1.Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during periods of
2.Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area and should be considered normal.
3.Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure. Drain and flush the tank as directed under “Draining and Flushing”.
Smoke/Odor
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke and odor during the initial
Safety Shut-off
This water heater is designed to automatically
1. The water temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C) for 160°F |
A temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) sensor located in the gas control valve\thermostat, is used to shut off the water heater if the water temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C). The Diagnostic Status Light will flash a code indicating
an “Overheat Failure” (4 Flashes). See “Operating the Temperature Control System.” If the gas control valve/ thermostat has an “ECO Lockout” the gas control valve/ thermostat must be replaced by a qualified person. Contact your local dealer for service information.
Anode Rod/Water Odor
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life of the water heater by protecting the
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the anode rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water.
IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. A special anode rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system may require special filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three years and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode rod dictates its replacement.
NOTE: Artificially softened water requires the anode rod to be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
•The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
•Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be replaced. NOTE: Whether
models. |
3.Excessive combustion chamber temperatures.
4.The presence of flammable vapors.
This unit is equipped with a flammable vapor sensor, designed to shut off the gas supply in the event the heater has been exposed to flammable vapors (spilled gasoline or paint fumes for example). IMPORTANT: If the flammable vapor sensor activates a qualified service person must be contacted to reset the water heater. This unit is also equipped with a thermal switch designed to shut off the gas control valve/thermostat in the event the water heater has poor combustion caused by a blocked vent or insufficient combustion air. If the switch opens, check the
IMPORTANT: Correct any issues prior to resetting the switch.
In replacing the anode:
1.Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2.Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the water tank.
3.Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank. (Refer to “Draining and Flushing” for proper procedures). Close drain valve.
4.Remove old anode rod.
5.Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install new anode rod.
6.Turn on water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to purge air from water system.
7.Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if found.
Figure 25:
Anode Rod Depletion
Contact the Product Service and Support Department for service information at:
8.Restart the water heater as directed in this manual. See the Repair Parts Illustration for anode rod location.
TEFLON ® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.
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