KitchenAid ICEMAKER manual Leveling, Water Supply Connection

Recommended grounding method

For your personal safety, this appliance must be grounded. This appliance is equipped with a power supply cord having a 3 prong grounding plug. To minimize possible shock hazard, the cord must be plugged into a mating, 3 prong, grounding-type wall receptacle, grounded in accordance with the National Electrical Code and local codes and ordinances. If a mating wall receptacle is not available, it is the personal responsibility of the customer to have a properly grounded, 3 prong wall receptacle installed by a qualified electrician.

Leveling

It is important for the ice maker to be level in order to work properly. Depending upon where you install the ice maker, you may need to make several adjustments to level it.

Tools required

■Carpenter’s level

■Adjustable wrench

■¹⁄₄ in. socket wrench

Undercounter installation

If you are installing the ice maker under a countertop, then you may need to adjust the height of the ice maker. The adjustable rear wheels are preset to position 1 for a cabinet opening height of 34 in. (86.4 cm).

1.For cutout height of 34 in. (86.4 cm)

2.For cutout height of 34¹⁄₈ in. (86.7 cm)

3.For cutout height of 34⁵⁄₁₆ in. (87.2 cm)

4.For cutout height of 34¹⁄₂ in. (87.6 cm)

To adjust the rear wheel height

1.Using a ¹⁄₄ in. socket wrench, remove the five screws from the rear access panel and carefully pull the panel away from the drain hose.

2.Using a ³⁄₈ in. or adjustable wrench, remove the screw that holds the rear wheel.

NOTE: Push up against the top back of the ice maker to take some weight off of the wheels and make it easier to remove the screws.

3.Move the rear wheel and screw to a new position as needed for your cabinet opening height. Tighten the screw completely.

4.Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to change the position of the wheel on the other side.

5.Replace the rear panel and screws. Be sure that the drain tube is positioned in the opening provided.

6.Use the front leveling legs to make sure the product is level.

To adjust the front leveling legs

Your ice maker has two adjustable leveling legs to help you steady the product and make sure it is level.

NOTE: It is easier to adjust the leveling legs if you have another person to assist you.

1.Place a carpenter’s level on top of the product to see if the ice maker is level from front to back and side to side.

2.Push up on the top front of the ice maker, and then locate the leveling screws that are on the bottom front of the product.

3.Using an adjustable wrench, change the height of the legs as follows:

■Turn the leveling leg to the right to lower that side of the ice maker.

■Turn the leveling leg to the left to raise that side of the ice maker.

NOTE: The ice maker should not wobble. Use shims to add stability when needed.

4.Use a carpenter’s level to re-check the ice maker to see that it is even from front to back and side to side. If the ice maker is not level, repeat Steps 2 and 3. If the ice maker is level, go to the “Water Supply Connection” section.

Freestanding installation

If you are not installing your ice maker under a countertop, you will probably not need to adjust the rear wheel height. Follow the steps outlined in “To adjust the front leveling legs” earlier in this section.

NOTE: The ice maker should not wobble. Use shims to add stability when needed.

Water Supply Connection

Read all directions carefully before you begin.

IMPORTANT:

■All installations must be in accordance with local plumbing codes requirements.

■Use copper tubing and check for leaks.

■Install copper tubing only in areas where temperatures will remain above freezing.

Tools required

■Standard screwdriver

■⁷⁄₁₆ in. and ¹⁄₂ in. open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches

■¹⁄₄ in. nut driver

■¹⁄₄ in. drill bit

■Hand drill or electric drill properly grounded

NOTE: Your ice maker dealer has a kit available with a ¹⁄₄ in. (6.35 mm) saddle-type shut-off valve, a union, and copper tubing. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆ in. (4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more easily.

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