Electrical Requirements

WARNING

Electrical Shock Hazard

Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Do not remove ground prong.

Do not use an adapter.

Do not use an extension cord.

Failure to follow these instructions can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

Before you move your refrigerator into its final location, it is important to make sure you have the proper electrical connection.

Recommended Grounding Method

A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate circuit serving only your refrigerator be provided. Use an outlet that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an extension cord.

NOTE: Before performing any type of installation, cleaning, or removing a light bulb, turn the control (Thermostat, Refrigerator or Freezer Control depending on the model) to OFF and then disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical source. When you are finished, reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical source and reset the control (Thermostat, Refrigerator or Freezer Control depending on the model) to the desired setting.

Water Supply Requirements

Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation. Read and follow the instructions provided with any tools listed here.

IMPORTANT:

■If you turn the refrigerator on before the water line is connected, turn the ice maker OFF.

■All installations must meet local plumbing code requirements.

■Use copper tubing and check for leaks. Install copper tubing only in areas where the household temperatures will remain above freezing.

TOOLS NEEDED: Flat-blade screwdriver, ⁷⁄₁₆" and ¹⁄₂" open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches, ¹⁄₄" nut driver and drill bit, hand drill or electric drill (properly grounded).

NOTE: Your refrigerator dealer has a kit available with a ¹⁄₄"

(6.35 mm) saddle-type shutoff valve, a union, and copper tubing. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆"

(4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more easily.

Water Pressure

A cold water supply with water pressure of between 30 and

120psi (207-827 kPa) is required to operate ice maker. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.

Reverse Osmosis Water Supply

IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the refrigerator needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 - 827 kPa)

If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa).

If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is less than

40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa):

■Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.

■Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill after heavy usage.

If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.

Connect the Water Supply

(on some models)

Read all directions before you begin.

IMPORTANT: If you turn the refrigerator on before the water line is connected, turn the ice maker OFF.

Connect to Water Line

1.Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.

2.Turn OFF main water supply. Turn ON nearest faucet long enough to clear line of water.

3.Locate a ¹⁄₂" to 1¹⁄₄" (1.27 cm to 3.18 cm) vertical cold water pipe near the refrigerator.

IMPORTANT:

■Make sure it is a cold water pipe.

■Horizontal pipe will work, but drill on the top side of the pipe, not the bottom. This will help keep water away from the drill and normal sediment from collecting in the valve.

4.Determine the length of copper tubing you will need. Measure from the connection on lower left rear of refrigerator to the water pipe. Add 7 ft (2.1 m) to allow for cleaning. Use ¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm) O.D. (outside diameter) copper tubing. Be sure both ends of copper tubing are cut square.