Figure 36. Blade leading away from line of cut.
To compensate for lead if making straight crosscuts using the miter gauge, you will need to shift the table. To do this:
1.On a scrap piece of wood, mark a line that is perpendicular to the front edge. Starting where the line begins, cut the board by push- ing it through the blade with the miter gauge.
2.Loosen the table mounting bolts according to the instructions about “Table Adjustments” on page 20. Shift the table to compensate for the blade lead.
3.Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the blade cuts straight when wood is pushed through with the miter gauge.
NOTICE
If the table is shifted, the fence will be affected since it is attached.
NOTICE
Lead adjustments will change when new blades are mounted on the saw.
Wheel Alignment
Wheel alignment is one of the easiest ways to ensure you get optimal performance from your bandsaw. When wheels are aligned, or coplanar, the bandsaw is more likely to cut straight without wandering; and vibration, heat, and blade wear are considerably decreased because the blade is automatically balanced on the wheel. This is known as “Coplanar Tracking.”
To verify if the the upper and lower wheels are coplanar:
1.With the blade on and properly tensioned, hold a straightedge close to the center of both wheels. Make sure it fully extends across them as shown in Figure 37.
Figure 37. Checking wheel alignment with a
straightedge.
2.A perfectly coplanar set of wheels will allow the straightedge to touch the top and bottom of the outside rims on each wheel. If this is the case with your wheels, then they are coplanar.
3.If your wheels are not coplanar, check them for adjustment by placing the straightedge on the lower wheel first – ensuring that it touches both the top and bottom rim – and adjust the tracking knob to see how the straightedge lines up with the upper wheel.
G1012 18" Bandsaw |
