Wayne-Dalton 105/110, 310/311 Removing an Existing Door, Preparing the Opening

Models: 105/110 310/311

1 22
Download 22 pages 49.1 Kb
Page 5
Image 5
Removing an Existing Door

Graduated End Hinge Schedule

 

 

Top

N/A

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate IV

5#

 

 

 

 

 

2”

Intermediate III

4#

 

 

 

 

Intermediate II

3#

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate I

2#

 

 

 

 

6 Section High Door

 

Bottom

1#

 

 

 

 

Top

N/A

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate IV

7#

 

 

 

 

 

3”

Intermediate III

6#

 

 

 

 

Intermediate II

5#

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate I

4#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bottom

3#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top

N/A

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate V

6#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate IV

5#

 

2”

 

 

 

Intermediate III

4#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate II

3#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate I

2#

 

 

 

 

7 Section High Door

 

Bottom

1#

 

 

 

 

Top

N/A

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate V

8#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate IV

7#

 

 

 

 

 

3”

Intermediate III

6#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate II

5#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intermediate I

4#

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bottom

3#

 

 

 

 

NOTE: Center hinge(s) use #1 graduated end hinges at each pre-drilled vertical stile location. The pre-drilled locations are located at the top and or bottom rails on the inside of the section surface.

NOTE: Some doors will receive half center hinge(s). These will be installed in between the center hinge(s) and graduated end hinge(s).

Strut Identification:

Identify your struts to determine which ones are long strut(s) or short strut(s).

Short Strut(s) are typically installed along the top rail of the top section and or along the bottom rail of the bottom section.

Long Strut(s) are typically installed along the top and or bottom rails of sections. Measure the height of the long strut(s) to determine if you have 2” or 3”.

NOTE: Some struts also may or may not have holes in them. If they don’t, then prior to installing the strut and hinge to the section surface, you may have to drill a 3/16” hole for the appropriate fastener on one or both sides of the strut legs.

Strutting Schedule for Door Heights Less Than Or Equal to 8’0”

 

 

Door Width

 

Product

 

 

 

Up To and Including

From 12’3” To 16’0”

From 16’1” To 18’0”

 

 

12’2”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 105

N/A

(4) 2” Struts

N/A

 

 

 

 

Model 110

N/A

(4) 2” Struts

(4) 3” Struts

 

 

 

 

Model 310/311

N/A

(4) 2” Struts

(4) 3” Struts

 

 

 

 

 

Strutting Schedule for Door Heights Greater Than Or Equal to 8’1”

 

 

 

 

 

 

Door Width

 

Product

 

 

 

Up To and Including

From 12’3” To 16’0”

From 16’1” To 18’0”

 

 

12’2”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 105

(2) 2” Struts

(1) 2” Strut, per section,

N/A

Plus 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 110

(2) 2” Struts

(1) 2” Strut, per section,

(1) 3” Strut, per section,

Plus 1

Plus 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 310/311

(2) 2” Struts

(1) 2” Strut, per section,

(1) 3” Strut, per section,

Plus 1

Plus 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

2” Strut

 

 

3” Strut

 

 

Long strut

 

Upper hinge

 

Short strut

Center hinge(s)

leaf

 

 

(as required)

Lower hinge

 

Hinges are stamped for

 

leaf

 

identification

Half center hinge(s)

2

1

1

 

 

 

(as required)

Removing an Existing Door

Important: Counterbalance spring tension must always be released before any attempt is made to start removing an existing door.

Preparing the Opening WARNING

A powerful spring releasing its energy suddenly can cause severe or fatal injury. To avoid injury, have a trained door systems tech- nician, using proper tools and instructions, release the spring tension.

For detailed information see supplemental instructions “Removing an Existing Door/ Preparing the Opening”. These instructions are not supplied with the door, but are available at no charge from Wayne-Dalton, A Division Of Overhead Door Corporation, P.O. Box 67, Mt. Hope, OH., 44660, or at www.Wayne-Dalton.com.

Preparing the Opening

IMPORTANT: If you just removed your existing door or you are installing a new door, complete all steps in preparing the opening.

To ensure secure mounting of track brackets, side and center brackets, or steel angles to new or retro-fit construction, it is recommended to follow the procedures outlined in DASMA technical data sheets #156, #161 and #164 at www.dasma.com.

The inside perimeter of your garage door opening should be framed with wood jamb and header material. The jambs and header must be securely fastened to sound framing members. It is recommended that 2” x 6” lumber be used. The jambs must be plumb and the header level. The jambs should extend a minimum of 12” (305 mm) above the top of the opening for Torsion counterbalance systems. For low headroom applications, the jambs should extend to the ceiling height. Minimum side clearance required, from the opening to the wall, is 3-1/2” (89 mm), for 2” track. Minimum side clearance required, from the opening to the wall, is 4-1/2” (114 mm), for 3” track.

Important: Closely inspect jambs, header and mounting surface. Any wood found not to be sound, must be replaced.

For Torsion counterbalance systems, a suitable mounting surface (2” x 6”) must be firmly at- tached to the wall, above the header at the center of the opening.

Note: Drill a 3/16” pilot hole in the mounting surface to avoid splitting the lumber. Do not attach the mounting surface with nails.

Weatherstrips (may not be included):

Depending on the size of your door, you may have to cut or trim the weatherstrips (if necessary) to properly fit into the header and jambs.

Note: If nailing product at 40°F or below, pre-drilling is required.

Note: Do not permanently attach weatherstrips to the header and jambs at this time.

For the header, align the weatherstrip 1/8” to 1/4” inside the header edge, and temporarily secure it to the header with equally spaced nails. Starting at either side of the jamb, fit the weatherstrip up tight against the temporarily attached weatherstrip in the header and 1/8” to 1/4” inside the jamb edge. Temporarily secure the weatherstrip with equally spaced nails. Repeat for other side. This will keep the bottom section from falling out of the opening during installation. Equally space nails approximately 12” to 18” apart.

Backroom requirement: Backroom is defined as the distance needed from the opening back into the garage to allow the door to open fully.

*NOTE: For door heights from 10’1” to 12’0”, refer to your operator manufacture installation instructions for appropriate depth into room.

Headroom requirement: Headroom is defined as the space needed above the top of the door for tracks, springs, etc. to allow the door to open properly. If the door is to be motor operated, 2-1/2” (64 mm) of additional headroom is required.

Backroom Requirements

5

Please Do Not Return This Product To The Store. Contact your local Wayne-Dalton dealer. To find your local Wayne-Dalton dealer,

refer to your local yellow pages business listings or go to the Find a Dealer section online at www.Wayne-Dalton.com

Page 5
Image 5
Wayne-Dalton 105/110, 310/311 installation instructions Removing an Existing Door, Preparing the Opening