Powermatic 2700 manual Butt Joints, Glue Butt Joint, Tongued Joint, Drop Leaf Joint, Taper Cuts

Figure 58 shows BOTH cuts required for a window sash rail end. The first operation at top is a rabbet cut made with a groove cutter. The second operation is performed with a stub spindle and buttonhead screw.

Butt Joints

All butt-type joints require both work-pieces to be perfectly square and straight-edged.

Glue Butt Joint

To perform a glue butt joint, both fences are kept inline and adjusted for a depth of cut (Figure 59).

The cuts on both work-pieces are part-edge cuts which do not reduce the stock width during the cutting procedure. When shaping the two workpieces, one is fed top-side up; the other is fed bottom-side up.

Figure 58

Figure 59

Tongued Joint

Similar to the glue joint, both fences are kept in-line for the tongued joint and adjusted for a 1/4 inch depth of-cut with no reduction in stock width. With this joint, however, both work-pieces are fed with the same side up as shown in Figure 60.

Drop Leaf Joint

When shaping a drop-leaf joint as shown in Figure 61, the leaf workpiece is shaped with a Drop-Leaf Bead cutter; the table workpiece is shaped with a Drop-Leaf Cove cutter.

With this type joint, the whole edge of both workpieces is shaped, same-side up, and allowance made for a 1/16 inch reduction in width. Adjust the in-feed fence to reduce the workpiece width by 1/16 inch, and adjust the out-feed fence to compensate for stock removed.

Figure 60

Figure 61

Taper Cuts

Taper cuts can be made by offsetting the fences for the amount of taper desired, or with a layout line on the stock which can be paralleled to the infeed fence as shown in Figure 62.

Start the cut by holding the stock against the infeed fence and swinging it into contact with the outfeed fence just past the cutterhead. As the cut is started, transfer pressure to hold the workpiece against the outfeed fence, and continue feeding the workpiece through. After the first cut, the fences will have to be readjusted in order for the second cut (parallel cut) and the final depth-of-cut to remain true with the taper.

Figure 62

Do not use the standard fence for short work (12 inches or less in length on the side to be cut). Instead, use a miter gauge or special fixture to avoid losing control of the workpiece.

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