3.If ripping, ensure rail lock lever is tight and fence is par- allel to the blade.
4.If crosscutting, miter gauge lever is tight.
5.Guard is in place and working properly.
6.Safety glasses are being worn.
7.The blade guard is properly attached and the anti-kick- back teeth are functioning.
Failure to adhere to these common safety rules can greatly increase the likelihood of injury.
Ripping
1.Lock the rip fence by pressing the rail lock lever down. Remove the miter gauge.
2.Raise the blade so it is about 1/8"(3.2mm) higher than the top of the workpiece.
3.Hold the workpiece flat on the table and against the fence. Keep the workpiece about 1" (25.4mm) away from the blade.
CAUTION: The workpiece must have a straight edge against the fence and must not be warped, twisted or bowed. Keep both hands away from the blade and away from the path of the blade.
4.Turn the saw on and allow the blade to come up to speed. Both hands can be used in starting the cut. When there is approximately twelve (12) inches (305mm) left to be ripped…use only one hand, with your thumb pushing the material, your index and second fin- ger holding the material down and your other fingers hooked over the fence. Always keep your thumb along side your first two fingers and near the fence.
5.Keeping the workpiece against the table and fence, slowly feed the workpiece rearward all the way through the saw blade. Continue pushing the workpiece until it is clear of the guard and it falls off the rear of the table. Do not overload the motor.
6.Never try to pull the workpiece back with the blade turn- ing. Turn the switch off, allow the blade to stop, raise the anti-kickback teeth on each side of the splitter if neces- sary and slide the workpiece out.
7.When sawing a long piece of material or a panel, always use a work support. A sawhorse, rollers, or out feed assembly provides adequate support for this purpose. The work support must be at the same height as the saw table.
CAUTION: Never push or hold onto the “free” or “cut off” side of the workpiece.
Bevel Ripping
This operation is the same as ripping except the bevel angle is set to an angle other than zero degrees.
WARNING: Before connecting the table saw to the power source or operating the saw, always inspect the guard and splitter for proper alignment and clearance with saw blade. Check alignment after each change of bevel angle.
Ripping Small Pieces
It is unsafe to rip small pieces. It is not safe to put your hands close to the blade. Instead, rip a larger piece to obtain the desired piece. When a small width is to be ripped and the hand cannot be safely put between the blade and the rip fence, use one or more push sticks. A pattern is included on page 9 to make push sticks. Use them to hold the workpiece against the table and fence, and push the workpiece fully past the blade. See Figure 22.
Crosscutting
1.Remove the rip fence and place the miter gauge in the desired slot.
2.Adjust the blade height so that the blade is about 1/8" (3.2mm) higher than the top of the workpiece.
3.Hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge with the path of the blade in line with the desired cut location. Keep the workpiece an inch or so in front of the blade.
KEEP BOTH HANDS AWAY FROM THE BLADE AND THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
4.Start the saw motor and allow the blade to come up to speed.
5.While using both hands to keep the workpiece against the face of the miter gauge, and holding the workpiece flat against the table, slowly push the workpiece through the blade. See Figure 23.
6.Never try to pull the workpiece with the blade turning. Turn the switch off, allow the blade to stop, and carefully slide the workpiece out.
CAUTION: Never touch or hold onto the “free” or “cut off” end of the workpiece.
Bevel Crosscutting
This operation is the same as crosscutting except that the bevel angle is set to an angle other than 0°.
WARNING: Before connecting the table saw to the power source or operating the saw, always inspect the guard and splitter for proper alignment and clearance with saw blade. Check alignment after each change of bevel angle.
Mitering
This operation is the same as crosscutting except the miter gauge is locked at an angle other than 0°. Hold the work- piece FIRMLY against the miter gauge and feed the work- piece slowly into the blade (to prevent the workpiece from moving). See Figure 23.
MITER GAUGE OPERATION
To set your miter gauge, loosen the lock handle and move the miter gauge to the desired angle. The miter gauge has set stops and 90° and 45° left and right. To rotate the miter gauge beyond these stops, flip the stop plate up, as shown in Figure 21.
Compound Mitering
This is a combination of bevel crosscutting and mitering. Follow the instruction for both bevel crosscutting and mitering.
FIG. 24
DUST ACCESS
DOOR
HAIR PIN COTTERS
FIG. 25
HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT
THREADS
Dado Cutting
CAUTION: Do not attempt to stack dado blades thicker than 13/16" (20mm). Do not use dado blades larger than 8" (200mm) diameter. When installing the dado stack, do not include the inner clamp washer. Replace it with the outer clamp washer, then install the blade stack, arbor nut, and tighten with the wrench supplied.
Since dado cuts are not through cuts, the cuts must be per- formed with the blade guard removed. To remove the blade guard, loosen the two bolts shown in Figure 10 and remove the guard assembly.
When using the dado, the special dado insert (also sold as an accessory) must be used.
Anytime a cut is required that is considerably wider than the saw kerf, a dado is used. A dado cut is commonly used to add support and line up a shelf for a cabinet, bookcase or some such project. When using the dado, the guard must be removed. Use EXTREME care when using the dado without the guard. If a deep cut is required. Use several successive
