A.An outside air source has been used to charge the system. This air did not pass through the drying bed.

B.Air usage is exceptionally high and not normal for a highway vehicle. This may be due to accessory air demands or some unusual air requirement that does not allow the compressor to load and unload (compressing and non-compressing cycle) in a normal fashion. Check for high air system leakage.

C.The air dryer has been installed in a system that has been previously used without an air dryer. This type system will be saturated with moisture and several weeks of operation may be required to dry it out.

D.Location of the air dryer is too close to the air compressor. Refer to “Installation” section.

E.In areas where more than a 30° range of temperature occurs in one day, small amounts of water can accumulate in the air brake system due to condensation. Under these conditions, the presence of small amounts of moisture is normal and should not be considered as an indication that the dryer is not performing properly.

Note also that a small amount of oil in the system may be normal and should not, in itself, be considered a reason to replace the desiccant; oil stained desiccant can often function adequately.

2.Check mounting bolts for tightness.

3.Check the operation of the integral single check valve in the AD-2air dryer or the “in line” check valve used with the AD-1air dryer. Build the air system to governor cut-out and observe the test air gauge installed in the #1 reservoir. A rapid loss of pressure could indicate a failed check valve. This can be confirmed by checking at the purge valve exhaust. (Note: Purge valve will be

FIGURE 5

open when governor cut-out pressure is reached. Allow two minutes for purge cycle before testing the check valve.)

4.Check for excessive leakage at the purge valve by coating the exhaust with a soap solution while the compressor is loaded. (compressing air)

5.Check the operation of the safety valve by pulling the exposed stem while the compressor is loaded. (compressing air) There must be an exhaust of air while the stem is held and the valve should reseat when the stem is released.

6.Check all lines and fittings leading to and from the air dryer for leakage and integrity.

7.Check the operation of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly during cold weather operation as follows:

A.Electric Power to the Dryer

With the ignition or engine control “on”, check for power at the dryer’s electrical terminal (see Figure 16) with a voltmeter or test light. If there is no voltage, look for a blown fuse, broken wires, or corrosion in the vehicle wiring harness.

B. Thermostat and Heater

1.Turn off the ignition switch and cool the end cover assembly to below 40°F. With an ohmmeter check the resistance between the electrical terminal and the aluminum of the end cover (see Figure 16). This resistance should be 2.0 - 4.0 ohms for a 12 volt end cover, 8.1 -13 ohms for a 24 volt, 60 watt cover, and 4.0 - 7.0 ohms for a 24 volt, 120 watt end cover.

2.Warm the end cover assembly to over 90°F. and check the resistance as above. This resistance should exceed 1,000 ohms.

If these resistances are within the limits, the thermostat and heater are operating properly.

If these resistances are outside the limits, proceed to Step C to determine the cause.

C.Heater Element

With the ignition or engine control switch “off”, remove the thermostat cover (see Figure 17). With an ohmmeter check the resistance between the aluminum of the end cover and the heater post (see Figure 17). For a 12 volt end cover, the resistance should be 2.0 - 2.8 ohms. For a 24 volt, 60 watt end cover, 8.1 - 11.1 ohms, and for a 24 volt, 120 watt end cover, 4.0 - 4.6 ohms. If the heater resistance is outside these ranges, a new or remanufactured end cover should be installed, since the heater element cannot be serviced.

If the heater resistance is within the limits the thermostat should be replaced (Kit Number 102637) or a new or remanufactured end cover installed.

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BENDIX SD-08-2403 manual Electric Power to the Dryer