6.2 Troubleshooting
Have a good VOM meter to check voltages and continuity. A
1. Check the input indicator LEDs. They should only come ON when a keying device (card reader, push button, etc.) is activated. If any of the input LEDs are ON continuously, this will cause the gate operator to hold open. Disconnect the keying devices one at a time until the LED goes OFF.
2. Check any external secondary entrapment protection devices. Any short or malfunction in these devices can cause the gate operator to stop or to hold open.
3. A malfunction in a loop or loop detector can cause the gate operator to hold open, or to not detect a vehicle when it is present over the loop. The LEDs next to the loop detector ports on the operator circuit board will light only when the loop has detected an object above it. If the LEDs stays on after the object has gone, then the loop detector has malfunc- tioned. Pull the loop detector circuit boards from the loop ports on the operator circuit board. If the malfunction persists, the problem is not with the loop system. For more information on trouble shooting loops and loop detectors, refer to your loop detector instruction sheet and to the DoorKing Loop and Loop Detector Information Manual.
4. Check to be sure that there are no shorted or open control wires from the keying devices to the gate operator. If a keying device fails to open the gate, momentarily jumper across terminals 11 and 20 on the gate operator circuit board. If the gate operator starts, this indicates that a problem exist with the keying device and is not with the gate operator.
5. If a
6. Check the high voltage supply. A voltage drop on the supply line (usually caused by using too small supply voltage wires) will cause the operator to malfunction. Refer to the wire size chart in section 2.1.
Symptom | Possible Solution(s) |
|
|
Operator will not run. | • Check that power to the operator is turned ON. |
Power LED is OFF. | • Transformer may be overheated. Turn power off and allow board to cool for several minutes then |
| retest. Check for low 115 VAC power and low voltage shorts. |
| • Check for 115 VAC at terminals 2 and 3. If voltage measures OK, check the terminal strip or |
| replace the circuit board. |
|
|
Operator will not run. | • Momentarily jumper terminal 11 to terminal 20. If the input LED does not come ON, check the |
Power LED is ON. | terminal strip or replace the circuit board. If LED does come ON, proceed to next steps. |
| • Remove circuit board. With power ON, momentarily jumper terminal 3 to terminal 4 with a |
| 14 AWG insulated jumper wire. CAUTION – HIGH VOLTAGE. The motor should run. |
| • With power ON, momentarily jumper terminal 3 to terminal 5 with a 14 AWG insulated jumper wire. |
| CAUTION – HIGH VOLTAGE. The motor should run in the opposite direction of the above step. |
| • If the motor runs in both steps above, replace the control board. If the motor does not run, |
| or runs in only one direction, problem can be a bad motor, motor capacitor, wire connections |
| from the control board to the motor or a bad control board. |
|
|
Secondary operator | • Check that |
motor will not run. | • Remove circuit board. Momentarily jumper terminal 3 to one of the secondary motor terminals, |
| then to the other secondary motor terminal with a 14 AWG insulated jumper wire. |
| CAUTION – HIGH VOLTAGE. The secondary motor should run one way, then the other way as |
| power is applied to each terminal. |
| • If the secondary motor runs in both directions, replace the control board. If secondary motor does |
| not run, or runs in only one direction, problem can be in the wiring from the primary to secondary |
| operator, bad secondary motor or motor capacitor. |
|
|
| Continued on next page |
33 |