Sears 113.299131 (3), (8)

Figure 31

SCALE

(WITH MIRROR SURFACE)

WINDOW

REFLECTED IMAGE

.. Figure 32

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

Using a 5/32 inch hex-"L'" wrench, loosen the

set screw at the rear of the fence approximately

two turns. (See figure 29.) This screw is located

in the fence lock just inside the channel as shown.

Place the fence back on saw table and notice

that the lock handle offers no resistanceat any

position.

Push the lock handle down in "locked" position

and, using a 1/8 inch hex-"L" wrench inserted

into the fence pawl set screw from underneath the

saw table, tighten the set screw finger tight. (See

figure 30.) Do not use wrench or pliers--finger

tight only.

Raise the lock handle, push the fence to one side

(off square) at the rear. Then lock the fence with

the lock handle, while watching to make sure it

"'corrects" itself. Repeat this operation two or

more times. The fence should "'correct'" itself each

time it islocked.

Raise the lock handle and align the fence with

the miter groove (at the front end of the groove)

as shown infigure 26. Push the lock handle down.

Check for correct alignment with saw table groove

for the full length of the fence. If it isaligned at

the front but out of alignment at the rear, loosen

the two hex-head screws on top of the channel

near the front (figure 31) and tap the channel at

the rear with one hand until it is aligned with

the table groove. Tighten the two hex-head screws

securely and recheck. More than one trial may

be required, as tightening the screws may change

the setting slightly.

Check for "automatic correcting" by releasing

the lock lever, shifting the fence off square at

the rear, then locking it. The fence should square

itself automatically and be flush (parallel) with

the miter groove each time the handle is locked

down.

Lock thefence with the lock handle, using a 5/32

inch hex-"L" wrench, tighten the fence lock set

screw at the rear, hand tight only. (See figure

(10)

29.) Check to see if rear of fence is "secure" to

the table at the rear.

NOTE: If the fence fails to square itself every-

time, check for any burr or foreign material on

the surface of the fence head where it contacts

the saw table. Also check for nicks or burrs in

edges of saw table. Stone off any irregularities

these surfaces.

After adjusting the fence on the saw table, move

it to oneof the table extensions and re-check the

adjustment, as even the slightest difference in

length between the extensions and saw table

would affect the fence adjustment to some degree.

If one is slightly shorter than the other it would

be evidenced by a lighter "feel" of the fence

lever when locking it. If a difference in "feel" is

apparent, readjust the fence on the shorter mem-

ber and it will, in turn, lock effectively on the

longer member.

d. Aligning Rip Fence Plastic Indicators

(1) If for any reason the tilt handle has been rotated

during preceding operations, loosen the clamp

knob (figure 20) and rotate the tilt crank clock-

wise until it stops (tilt pointer at "0"). Tighten

the clamp knob.

(2) Position the rip fence on the right-hand side of

the saw blade with the fence channel one-inch

from the blade and lock the fence. Be sure to

use one of the teeth bent (set) to the right of

blade. Measure from this to the fence, since this

determines your width of cut. This distance should

be measured accurately with a scale.

(3) Set the right-hand indicator (a scribed line in

the plastic window) to "1" inch on the gulde-bar

scale. This is accomplished as follows:

(a) A close look will show a reflection of the

indicator line on the mirror surface of the

guide-bar scale. In order to make sure that

you are sighting squarely above the scale,

move your eye until the indicator line and its

reflected image coincide. (See figure 32.)