RIP CUT HAZARDS AND PRECAUTIONS
Two hazards are specificallyassociated with rip
cutting: ouffeed zone and wrong way feed.
In theoutfeed zone (behind the blade), the blade
teeth pointdown. The slightest contact while the blade
isstill spinning can snag clothing, jewelry, the work-
piece, or even skin, causing sedous personal injury.
Wrong way feed occurs when the workpiece contacts
the blade from the outfeed side. It is very hazardous
and will jerk the workpiece violently.You could be cut
if you are holding the workpiece.
WARNING: Failure to observe any of these
precautions can result inserious injury.
•The first precaution is, of course, simply to stay
completely away from the outfeed zone. Keep
hands away from the ouffeed zone.
•Point the anti-kickback pawls away from the blade
teeth to snag aworkpiece if the blade grabs. They
shouldbe positioned to restlightly onthe
workpiece. The flat side of the pawls should be
level and horizontal.
•Set the rivingknife to justclear the table.
•Set the hold down in front of the blade to just clear
the workpiece.
•Start and finish your cut from the infeed side.
•Push the workpiece pastthe pawls with push-
blocksand pushsticksto finish the cut.
•If the blade jams, tum the saw off with the switch
on the arm, remove the yellow key, andwait for the
blade to fully stop before freeing it.
•Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence and the
workpiece is not warped or twisted.
•Make sure no pressure is applied to the workpiece
on the outfeed side.
•Make sure the blade guard is lowered and is
working properly.
•Always set up the workpiece so the wider part of
the wood isbetween the blade and the fence. This
stabilizes the workpiece better.
•Do not release the workpiece until it has moved
pastthe pawls. Keep pushsticks firmly in place.
•Use pushsticks end pushblocks, not your hands,
when the trailingedge of the workpiece iswithin
3 in. ofthe blade. If the blade is set 2 in.or more
from thefence, use apushstick. Use apushblock
and auxiliary fence when the blade isbetween 2 in.
and 1/2 in. from the fence. (If the cut is narrower
than 1/2 in., use a different saw.) For large panel
ripcuts, use a featherboard instead of pushblocks
or pushsticks.See the section on Cutting Aids.
SETTING UP A RIP CUT
See Figure 46.
Aprecise and safe rip cut requires a careful set up.
Beforesetting up for in-rip or out-rip, especially for a
bevel cut, trythe workpiece inboth placements.
Check for stability,visibility, and control. Test which
willgive the best pushstickclearance.
Instructionsare given for an in-rip cut. At certain
points, the instructionswill vary for a bevel ripcut or
anout-rip process and will be enclosed in parenthe-
ses (example). Figure47 shows an out-dp setup.
•Inserta solidfence with nokerfs. Use an auxiliary
fence if the blade will be set only 1/2 in. to 2 in.
from thefence. Tighten the table clamps.
•Ifthe arm is too low ortoo high, first lift the blade
guard ifthe arm is too low,and turn the elevating
handwheel at the front of the table. Set the bladeto
just clear the kerf or table.
• Change the blade angle if needed. Raise the plastic
lowerguard to keep it from jamming, release the
bevel lock lever, and set the bevel indicator to zero.
(For a bevel rip cut, set the bevel Indicator to
the desired angle.) Test the clearance on the
guard. Retighten the bevel locklever.
SWITCH
ELEVATING
HANDWHEEL
INFEEDFOR
INRIPcu'rrlNG
Fig. 46
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