1.Dadoing is cutting a rabbet or wide groove into the work. Most dado head sets are made up of two outside saws and four or five inside cutters, (Fig.
S17). Various combinations of saws and cutters are used to cut grooves from 1/8″ to 13/16″ for use in shelving, making joints, tenoning, grooving, etc. The cutters are heavily swaged and must be arranged so that the teeth do not hit each other during rotation. The heavy portion of the cutters should fall in the gullets of the outside saws, as shown in Fig. S18. The saw and cutter overlap is shown in Fig. S19
(A)being the outside saw, (B) an inside cutter, and
(C)a paper washer or washers, used as needed to control the exact width of groove. A 1/4"groove is cut by using the two outside saws. The teeth of the saws should be positioned so that the raker on one saw is beside the cutting teeth on the other saw.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO STACK DADO BLADES THICKER THAN 13/16” (20MM)
DO NOT USE DADO BLADES LARGER THAN 8” (200MM) IN DIAMETER.
2.Attach the dado head set (D) Fig. S20, to the saw arbor. NOTE: IF THE ARBOR NUT DOES NOT FULLY
ENGAGE THE THREAD ON THE ARBOR, REMOVE THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE AND TIGHTEN THE ARBOR NUT AGAINST THE DADO HEAD SET BODY. DO NOT LOSE THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE. IT WILL BE NEEDED WHEN REATTACHING A BLADE TO THE ARBOR.
3.Fig. S21, shows a typical dado operation using the miter gauge as a guide.
NEVER USE THE DADO HEAD IN A
BEVEL POSITION.
ALWAYS INSTALL BLADE GUARD AND
STANDARD TABLE INSERT AFTER OPERATION IS COMPLETED.
USING AUXILIARY WOOD FACING
It is necessary when performing special operations such as when using the moulding cutterhead to add wood facing (A) Fig. S22, to one or both sides of the rip fence. Depending on the fence, the wood facing is attached to the fence either with wood screws through holes drilled in the fence or with two clamps (as shown in Fig. S22). For most work, 3/4" stock is suitable, although an occasional job may require
AB
C
Fig. S18 | Fig. S19 |
E
D 
Fig. S20
Fig. S21
A
Fig. S22
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