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*% Make a series of end cuts with the grain, approximately 3⁄8"–1⁄4" apart and 2"–3" long, as shown in =`^li\.'(A).

Alternatively, start cuts at 2"-3" deep, then make them progressively deeper, as shown in =`^li\.'

(B).

@DGFIK8EK1 Cuts made across the grain will result in weak fingers that easily break when flexed. When made correctly, the fingers should withstand flexing from moderate pressure. To test the finger flexibility, push firmly on the ends with your thumb. If the fingers do not flex, they are likely too thick (the cuts are too far apart).

+% Rout a 1⁄4"–3⁄8" wide slot 4"–5" long in the workpiece and 1"–2" from the short end of the featherboard (see =`^li\.().

,% Cut a miter bar that will fit in the table miter slot

approximately 5" long, as shown in =`^li\.).

1/4"-3/8" Slot

1"-2"

4"-5"

=`^li\.(% Slot routed in featherboard.

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-%Drill a 1⁄4" hole in the center of the bar, then countersink the bottom to fit a 1⁄4"-20 flat head screw.

.% Mark a 4" line through the center of the countersunk hole, then use a jig saw with a narrow blade to cut it out.

/% Assemble the miter bar and featherboard with a 1⁄4"- 20 x flat head screw, flat washer, and a wing nut or a star knob (see =`^li\.*). Congratulations! Your featherboard is complete.

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(Top View)	(Side View)
	5"
3/8"
5"	1/4" Hole
	Countersink on Bottom
	4" Slot

=`^li\.)% Miter bar pattern.

(Side View)

Wing Nut

Flat Washer

Featherboard

Miter Bar

Flat Head Screw

=`^li\.*% Assembling miter slot

featherboard components.

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