Cutting Dadoes with a Dado Blade
Because dado blades are much wider than stan- dard blades, they place a greater amount of force against the workpiece when cutting. This addition- al force increases the risk of kickback, requiring the operator to take additional steps when cutting to keep their injury risk at an acceptable level.
Dado blades have a higher risk of kickback than normal blades because their larger size applies stronger forces to the workpiece. This risk increases relative to the depth and width of the cut. To minimize your risk of serious personal injury, ensure that stock is flat and straight, and make multiple light cuts (rather than one deep cut) to achieve the desired cutting depth.
The Figure below demonstrates the sequential process of making multiple, light cuts that get progressively deeper. The actual number of cuts used should be determined by workpiece hard- ness, total dado depth, and feed rate. In general, if you hear the motor slow down during the cut, you are cutting too deep or feeding too fast.
Dado Blade | Cut 1 |
Workpiece | Fence |
| |
| Cut 2 |
Workpiece | Fence |
| |
| Cut 3 |
Workpiece | Fence |
| |
Finished |
|
Dado Cut |
|
Workpiece | Fence |
|
Figure 70. Example of dado being cut with multiple light cuts, instead of one deep cut.
Cutting Dadoes with a Standard Blade
A ripping blade is typically the best blade to use for cutting dadoes when using a standard blade because it removes sawdust very efficiently. See Page 37 for blade details.
To use a standard saw blade to cut dadoes:
1.DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
2.Mark the width of the dado cut on the workpiece. Include marks on the edge of the workpiece so the cut path can be aligned when the workpiece is lying on the table.
3.Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of dado channel desired).
4.Set the saw up for the type of cut you need to make, depending on if it is a rip cut (Page 37) or crosscut (Page 39).
5.Align the blade to cut one of the dado sides, as shown in Figure 71.
C
ut 1
Blade
Fence
Workpiece
