2-3
11. Thread the nut onto the coupling at the
end of the copper tubing. Tighten the nut
by hand. Then tighten it with a wrench two
more turns. Do not overtighten.
1. Line to ice maker 3. Ferrule (purchased)
2. Nut (purchased) 4. Coupling (purchased)
12. Remove the four screws from the lower
access panel and remove the panel from
the front of the ice maker.
NOTE: To prevent rattling, keep the copper
tubing from touching the cabinet side wall, or
any other parts inside the cabinet.
13. Turn the shutoff valve ON.
14. Check the water connections for leaks,
and carefully tighten any that are leaking.
15. Reinstall the lower access panel with its
four screws.
1. Water Pan Drain
2. Water Valve
CONNECTING THE DRAIN
Gravity Drain System
Connect the ice maker drain so that it is in
accordance with all state and local codes and
ordinances. If the ice maker is provided with a
gravity drain system, use the following guide-
lines when installing the drain lines. This will
prevent water from flowing back into the ice
maker storage bin and onto the floor, causing
water damage.
• Drain lines must have a minimum of 5/8″
(15.88 mm) inside diameter.
• Drain lines must have a 1″ drop per 48″ (2.54 cm
drop per 122 cm) of run, or 1/4″ drop per 12″
(6.35 mm per 30.48 cm) and not have any
low points where water can settle.
• The floor drains must be large enough to
accommodate drainage from all drains.
• The ideal installation has a standpipe with a
1-1/2″ (3.81 cm) to 2″ (5.08 cm) PVC drain
reducer installed directly below the outlet of
the drain tube, as shown. You must maintain
a 1″ (2.54 cm) air gap between the drain
hose and the standpipe.
• It may be desirable to insulate the drain line
up to the drain inlet.
1. Drain Hose
2. 1″ (2.54 cm) Air Gap
3. PVC Drain Reducer
4. Center of drain should be 23″ (58.4 cm) from
front of door, with or without the 3/4″ (1.91 cm)
panel on the door.
FRONT VIEW
SIDE VIEW