![](/images/new-backgrounds/1208942/208942167x1.webp)
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TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPAIR | ||
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OUTPUT RECTIFIER BRIDGE REMOVAL
AND REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE (continued)
FIGURE F.11 – OUTPUT RECTIFIER
LEAD 8
TO STATOR (LEAD W1)
AC1
TO POLARITY SWITCH (S2)
(+) ![](/images/new-backgrounds/1208942/208942167xi3.webp)
![](/images/new-backgrounds/1208942/208942167xi4.webp)
![](/images/new-backgrounds/1208942/208942167xi5.webp)
![](/images/new-backgrounds/1208942/208942167xi6.webp)
AC2
TO RANGE SWITCH (S1)
TO CHOKE (L1)
LEAD 254
TO STATOR (LEAD S2)
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PROCEDURE
1.Remove the engine spark plug wires.
2.With a 5/16” nut driver or socket, remove the 6 sheet metal screws from the case top.
3.Remove the rubber gasket (cover seal) from the lift bail.
4.Remove the fuel cap. The rubber gasket for the fill tube will come off with the case top.
5.Remove the case top, then reinstall the fuel cap.
6.With the 5/16” nut driver, remove the 5 screws holding the right case side.
7.Remove the right case side by lifting up and out.
8.Disconnect the leads from the four terminals of the rectifier. Note the lead placement and hardware positioning for reassembly.
9.Loosen the three (3) mounting nuts that hold the rectifier assembly to the mounting bracket.
NOTE: The mounting nuts are metric (M8) hardware. Use the proper wrench or an adjustable wrench to avoid damaging the nuts.
Do not loosen the nuts closest to the heat sinks.
They are factory set to a specific torque.
10.Remove the rectifier assembly from the bracket.
11.Install the replacement rectifier assembly.
12.
Clean rectifier connection areas with a “very fine” abrasive to provide a shiny surface.
Use a thin film of heat sink compound (Dow Corning 340) between the leads and the rectifier connection points.
Place the leads and hardware exactly as found on original installation and tighten securely.