In order to get the flash on-axis and closer
to the subject when shooting insects or
other small live creatures, I use the flash in
the wireless remote setting, and handhold it
next to the front of the lens. I hold the
Speedlight to the left of the lens (because
my right hand is holding the camera). I gen-
erally angle the flash toward the subject. I
sometimes hold the flash near the top of
lens to achieve an overhead lighting effect.
When photographing still objects, I set up
multiple Speedlights using the AS-19
stands. I place two Speedlights angled at
approximately 45 degrees. Depending on
how I want the image to look, I either use
both of the Speedlights at their TTL settings
for even lighting or I reduce the exposure
compensation on one light to get a more
dramatic effect.
When shooting with the Speedlight very
close to the subject, I use the built-in dif-
fuser to soften the shadows a bit. Your
Speedlight will show that the power zoom
level is set to 14 or 17mm, but being so
close to your subject, you don’t need to
worry about any light fall off. You can also
use bounce flash to soften the light, but I
generally don’t, preferring to get the most
light of out of my Speedlight in order to
maintain a deep depth of field.
When using the SB-800 you can use diffu-
sion dome that is supplied with the flash.
You can also purchase a diffusion dome for
the SB-600. Stofen makes an inexpensive
one that works very well.
136 Part II Creating Great Photos with the Creative Lighting System
6.19 Hornet / Nikon D200 with Macro-Takumar 50mm f/4. ISO 800, 1/60 sec. at f/8. Built-
in Speedlight set to TTL.
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