periodic maintenance
Venting System Inspection
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the venting system. You should look for:
1.Obstructions which could cause improper venting. The combustion and ventilation air flow must not be obstructed.
2.Damage or deterioration which could cause improper venting or leakage of combustion products.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape of dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious health risk or asphyxiation.
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur if air for combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride, waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical compounds which are potentially corrosive.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or deterioration, something is wrong. Call the local gas utility to correct the problem and clean or replace the flue and venting before resuming operation of the water heater.
Anode Rod Inspection
the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. A special anode rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system may require special filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions.
The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three years and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode rod dictates its replacement.
NOTE: Artificially softened water requires the anode rod to be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
•The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
•Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be replaced. NOTE: Whether
In replacing the anode:
1.Turn off electric supply to the water heater.
2.Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the water tank.
3.Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank. (Refer to “Draining and Flushing” for proper procedures). Close drain valve.
4.Remove old anode rod.
5.Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install new anode rod.
6.Turn on water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to purge air from water system. Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if found.
7.Restart the water heater as directed in this manual. See the Repair Parts Illustration for anode rod location.
Figure 36.
Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve Operation
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life of the water heater by protecting the
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the anode rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with
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