
General Installation Suggestions
Many times poor or
to run excessively. One way to check for air infiltration is to look under and around the unit to the outdoors. If you can see light, there is air infiltration. The first floor of a building is where this problem most frequently occurs since caulking the bottom of the wall case may require lying outside in the dirt while working. This has been the cause of many complaints about the “short cycling” of the unit.
Curtains, furniture or other obstructions interfering with the discharge air circulation will make the unit cycle/turn off too soon since the cooled (or heated) discharge air is pulled back into the unit. This results in a room that is not adequately heated or cooled.
Blocking the discharge air on the unit during the heating operation can result in the air getting hot enough to distort the plastic room front. If you have a property where this may occur we recommend a “tent card” advising room occupants not to put anything on the unit.
Electrical Wiring Installation
Do not allow the installer to drill a hole in the wall case to run the electrical wiring. If this is done, the wiring will have to be run between the chassis and the edge of the wall case so it can be connected to the unit wiring on the room side of the wall case. When the chassis is removed for servicing or cleaning, the insulation on the wires can be cut and can create a safety hazard.
If the electrical connection on a
Central Desk Control and Remote
Thermostat Wiring
Do not allow the installer to drill a hole in the wall case to run Central Desk Control wiring or remote thermostat wiring to the unit terminals. CDC and remote thermostat wiring is classified as
in place the CDC or remote thermostat wiring is usually not
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visible to someone standing or sitting in the room. Do not run the
Consult the electrical inspector early in the project, especially if the power to the air conditioner is to be 265 volts, to understand what is required to comply with local electrical codes.
Wall Case/Exterior Grille
When making an installation where the exterior grille is flush with the exterior wall, or part of a custom window/louver section, make sure the installer caulks the wall case to the exterior wall, especially the bottom of the case. Many times the air conditioners are run during construction and the building is not closed. This can result in excessive humidity from the warm humid air entering the building, or from the “drying out” of the building materials. Many problems have been caused by condensate water or rainwater running back into the building where proper caulking has not been done.
Capacity Considerations
A unit that has a greater cooling capacity than required will cool the room quickly but will usually not run long enough under normal operation to adequately dehumidify the room. Most musty odors in rooms are due to excess humidity. Using a
Using a resistance heater larger than required—using a
4.7kW heater when a 3.3 kW heater would suffice for example
be a significant portion of the utility bill. Some customers have reported the demand charge actually being more than the usage charge. In a
Exterior Grilles
When replacing an older unit, the existing outdoor grille may need to be changed or modified. Outdoor airflow patterns have changed and this may dictate the need for outdoor grille replacement or modification.
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