Sewing Basics

2	SEWING BASICS
	The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
	Sewing	48
	General sewing procedure	48
	Selecting stitching	49
	Positioning the fabric	50
	Starting to sew	51
	Securing the stitching	53
	Cutting the thread	54
	Setting the Stitch	56
	Adjusting the stitch width	56
	Adjusting the stitch length	57
	Adjusting the thread tension	57
	Useful Functions	59
	Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches	59
	Automatically cutting the thread	60
	Mirroring stitches	61
	Useful Sewing Tips	62
	Trial sewing	62
	Changing the sewing direction	62
	Sewing curves	62
	Adjusting the presser foot pressure	62
	Sewing thick fabrics	63
	Sewing thin fabrics	64
	Sewing stretch fabrics	64
	Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics	64
	Sewing an even seam allowance	64
	Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot	65

Page 48

Image 48

Brother NV1200 operation manual Sewing Basics

Contents

Computerized Sewing and Embroidery Machine Important Safety Instructions For Users in the UK, EIRE, Malta and Cyprus only Contents Stitch Setting Chart Useful FunctionsUseful Sewing Tips Selecting Stitching Using the Memory Function Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative PatternsDesigning a Pattern My Custom Stitch Embroidering Neatly Care and Maintenance TroubleshootingUpgrading Your Machine’s Software Index Sewing Machine Features Introduction / Sewing Machine FeaturesIntroduction Accessories Included accessoriesPart code XC4489-051 Gold colored Accessories Others Optional accessories Following are available as optional accessories Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Front viewNames of Machine Parts and Their Functions Needle and presser foot section Right-side/rear view Operation buttons Start/stop button Operation panel LCD liquid crystal display touch panel Getting Ready Power supply precautions Turning the Machine On/Off CUnplug the power supply cord from the electrical outlet Unplug the power supply cord from the power supply jackTurning on the machine Turning off the machine LCD Liquid Crystal Display Operation Viewing the LCDUtility stitch selection screen Stitch type selection screen Changing the machine settings LCD Liquid Crystal Display Operation BPresspanel. Settings key on the operation Settings screen appearsTurn on the sewing machine LCD comes on Checking machine operating procedures DWhen settings are complete, press Back keyATurn on the sewing machine BPress Sewing machine help key on the operation panel DPressnext page. Next page key to switch to EAfter you finish looking, press Back key two timesInitial stitch screen appears again Winding/Installing the Bobbin Bobbin precautionsWinding/Installing the Bobbin Winding the bobbin Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto Fthe spool pin Become tangled around the spool pinAllowing you to choose a spool cap that Best fits the size of spool being used. If Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk Spool net Spool cap Spool pin Guide slit in bobbin winder seat with built-in cutter Installing the bobbin Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right GReattach the bobbin cover Upper Threading About the spool of threadThreading the upper thread Upper Threading DOpen the top cover Needle position button Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread Kguide This section describes how to thread the needle Threading the needleCLower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot Thread is passed through the eye of the needle AThreadguide. the machine to the needle bar thread For details, refer to Upper ThreadingBLower the presser foot lever Using the twin needle Threadeye. the upper thread for the left needleThread should unroll from the top front of the spool Screen for setting the twin needle appears Attach zigzag foot JTurn on the sewing machine and select a stitch KPress Pulling up the bobbin thread MPress Back keyNStart sewing AInsert the bobbin into the bobbin case Upper Threading Needle precautions This section describes how to replace the needleReplacing the Needle Needle types and their uses Replacing the Needle Checking the needle Replacing the needleCLower the presser foot lever Install the twin needle in the same way Presser foot precautions This section describes how to replace the presser footReplacing the Presser Foot Replacing the presser foot Replacing the Presser Foot Presser foot is attached Removing and attaching the presser foot holder Remove the presser footFor details, refer to Replacing the presser foot Sewing Cylindrical Pieces Free-arm sewingFree-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy Sewing Cylindrical Pieces Getting Ready Sewing Basics General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sewSewing Refer to Positioning the fabric Refer to Stitch Setting Chart Selecting stitchingSewing Attach the presser foot Positioning the fabric CPlace the fabric under the presser footFabric is now positioned to be sewn Starting to sew Machine stops sewing with the needle lowered in the fabric HCut the threads Securing the stitching For details, refer to Starting to sew Machine starts sewingMachine stops sewing Machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction When you have finished sewing, cut the threads Cutting the threadRelease Start/stop button or foot controller Sewing stitches Using the thread cutter BRaise the presser foot lever Setting the Stitch Adjusting the stitch widthPress to return the setting to its default Adjusting the stitch length Adjusting the thread tensionSetting the Stitch Correct thread tension Upper thread is too loose Each press of makes the thread tension tighter Useful Functions Useful FunctionsBSelect a stitch CPress on the LCD Automatically cutting the thread CPress on the screenDSet the fabric in place, and press Start/ stop button once Mirroring stitches Select a stitchPress on the screen Adjusting the presser foot pressure Useful Sewing TipsTrial sewing Changing the sewing direction When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to 3 standard Sewing thick fabricsUseful Sewing Tips Sewing thin fabrics Sewing stretch fabricsSewing leathers or vinyl fabrics Sewing an even seam allowance Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot Using the knee lifter AStop the sewing machine CRelease the knee lifterPresser foot is lowered Stitch Setting Chart Utility stitches Using overcasting foot GUsing zigzag foot J Satin stitching using the sewing Speed controller Stitch Setting Chart Utility stitches Stitch Setting Chart Stitch 7.0 4.0 Decorative stitching 7.0 1.0 Only Pattern for making adjustment Other stitchesStitches Small Yes Not Yes Small Gothic font Large Yes Outline Selecting Stitching Stitch typesSelecting Stitching BPresspanel. Utility stitch key on the operation CSelect the stitch type Press the stitch selectionSelecting characters Saving stitch settings Default stitch length is 2.5 mm† Example Bus CSet the stitch length to 2.0 mm DPress Press Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot G Overcasting StitchesOvercasting Stitches Attach overcasting foot G Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot J Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter Lowersewing.the presser foot lever, and then start Basic Stitching BastingBasic stitching Basic Stitching When sewing is finished, cut the thread For details, refer to Adjusting the stitch widthChanging the needle position 2.0 5.5 Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure Blind Hem StitchingBlind Hem Stitching DSelect a stitch If the needle catches too much of the hem fold Needle is too far to the leftHem If the needle does not catch the hem fold Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonhole sewing If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Size of the buttonhole is setCAttach buttonhole foot a FPullpossible.down the buttonhole lever as far as Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics BIt fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it Button sewing Feed dogs are loweredAttach button-sewing foot M Button is held in place Do not press Thread cutter button Attaching a shank to a buttonCCut off any excess thread Zipper Insertion Inserting a centered zipperZipper can be sewn in place For details, refer to Basic stitching Zipper Insertion HSelect stitch Inserting a side zipper Wrong side of fabric Mm 1/8 inch Zipper Insertion NTopstitch around the zipper Zipper/piping Insertion Zipper and piping can be sewn in placeZipper/piping Insertion Left sewing position Inserting a piping 100GSecurely tighten the positioning screw with a screwdriver HTopstitch around the zipper Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch stitchingElastic attaching Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 102 Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt StitchingStitch Appliqué stitching 104Attach the open toe foot ESelect a stitch Patchwork crazy quilt stitching PiecingSelect stitch 21 or Using the 1/4 inch quilting foot 106For a seam allowance on the left side Quilting Baste the fabric to be quiltedWalking foot is attached Free-motion quilting 108 Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller DPress on for stitch width control settingAConnect the foot controller 110 EPress Back keyInitial screen appears again Reinforcement Stitching Triple stretch stitchingBar tack stitching Reinforcement Stitching 112 BAttach buttonhole foot aEPullpossible.down the buttonhole lever as far as Darning Select stitch 58 or 114 Eyelet Stitching Eyelet StitchingEyelet stitch Attach monogramming foot N Horizontal Stitching 116Horizontal Remove the flat bed attachment Horizontal Stitching Fabric is fed forwardStart sewing Fabric is fed to the left Decorative Stitching Utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches118 Fagoting Decorative Stitching Scallop stitching Smocking120 Shell tuck stitching Select stitch 31 , 32 orAFold the fabric along the bias BAttach zigzag foot J CSelecttension.stitch 20 , and then increase the thread Joining 122Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side Select stitch 28 , 29 or AInstall the wing needle Heirloom stitchingBAttach monogramming foot N DStart sewing 124 Pattern displayed at the top of the screen is mirrored DSew along the center of the unfrayed section Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns Sewing beautiful patternsSewing patterns 126 Changing the pattern size Changing the stitch densitySewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns Select for coarser stitching, or select for finer stitching Changing the length for satin stitches 128It turns to and the pattern is longer BSelect a satin stitch pattern Shifting patterns Next pattern selected is moved half a width to the rightDSelect the same pattern Combining patterns 130Examples of step patterns BSelect the first pattern CSelect the next pattern Up to 70 patterns can be combinedRepeating patterns AAfter.the patterns have been combined, press 132 Mirroring a pattern imageChecking the pattern APress CCheck the contents, and then press Storing patternsBPresspanel. Memory key on the operation Recalling a pattern APress Recall key Realigning the pattern 134 FPress Settings key on the operation panel Press GTo adjust the vertical position, press ForVertical pattern adjustment Check the sewn pattern Horizontal pattern adjustment It returns to the screen for adjusting the patternContinue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn correctly 136 Designing a Pattern My Custom Stitch Drawing a sketch of the patternDesigning a Pattern My Custom Stitch Prepare a grid sheet set Entering the pattern data 138GAfter all points have been entered, press To revise the pattern, press Patterns Examples of designs 140Point Steps for embroidering are described in this chapter Embroidering Neatly What to prepare142 Following is necessary for embroidering Embroidering Neatly Needle Embroidery step by step 144 This section describes how to attach the embroidery foot Attaching the Embroidery FootAttaching the embroidery foot Attaching the Embroidery Foot 146 Turn the screwdriver toward the backHold the embroidery foot with your right hand, as shown Set the embroidery foot perpendicular Removing the embroidery foot BTurn off the sewing machine CRaise the presser foot leverAttach the presser foot holder For details, refer to Attaching the presser foot holder Embroidery unit precautions This section describes how to attach the embroidery unitAttaching the Embroidery Unit Attaching the embroidery unit Attaching the Embroidery Unit Slide the embroidery unit onto the sewing machine armCarriage moves to its initial position Removing the embroidery unit 150Remove the embroidery frame Press , and then press † When it cannot be ironed or placed in the hoop Preparing the FabricAttaching a stabilizer material to the fabric Preparing the Fabric Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame 152Embroidery frame large Embroidery frame mediumoption Embroidery pattern Mark 154 BPlace the embroidery sheet on the inner frameFor details, refer to We recommend stabilizer material for all embroidery This section describes how to attach the embroidery frame Attaching the Embroidery FrameAttaching the embroidery frame Attaching the Embroidery Frame Removing the embroidery frame 156 Selecting Embroidery Patterns Copyright informationEmbroidery pattern types Selecting Embroidery Patterns LCD liquid crystal display operation 158Operation keys Press this key again to cancel multi-color LCD button Selecting characters 160Specify the characters for embroidery If a wrong character was selected, press Switch the screen using Previous Key and Next page key Selecting an embroidery patternEmbroidery patterns Selecting a frame pattern 162Press the frame pattern BSelect the frame shape Using an embroidery card sold separately ESelect a patternOperation is the same as in Selecting Embroidery Patterns Embroidering Sewing attractive finishes164 Embroidering a pattern EmbroideringPrepareon the screen.embroidery thread of the color shown c Set the embroidery thread, and thread Bneedle 166 DLower the presser foot leverEPress Start/stop button After progressing 5-6 stitches, press Appliquéing Applique Position will be displayed on the screenSewing machine stops Applique will be displayed on the screen 168 ILower the presser foot lever, and press Start/stop button Adjusting the layout CCheck and adjust the layoutEditing Patterns Editing Patterns 170 Press Back key to return to the previous screenPress to return to the previous screen DPress Back key to return to the original screen Resewing Thread runs out partway through a design172 Forward one stitch increases the stitch number Stopping while embroidering CPress Embroidery keyETurn off the sewing machine FTurnpattern.on the sewing machine and select GPress 174 KRestart the embroidery Using the Memory Function Embroidery data precautionsUsing the Memory Function Switch screens using 176Stored patterns are displayed BSelect the pattern you wish to recall USB port connector for computer USB cable connector Recalling embroidery patterns from the computerData within folders cannot be recalled Switch screens using Previous page key Next page key GAdjust the pattern as desired, and then begin embroidering178 Select the pattern you wish to recall Cleaning the machine surface Cleaning the raceError messages Adjusting the LCD Care and Maintenance Cleaning the machine surfaceCleaning the race 180 Care and Maintenance Troubleshooting Correctly install the needle182 Presser foot lever is raised Lower the presser foot lever Troubleshooting Neatly on 184 Is tangled or Skipped 186 LCD Error messages Needle may break and cause injury 188 When the embroidery unit is attached Machine is in embroidery mode and the combined character Adjusting the LCD Operation beep190 Canceling the operation beep AWhile holding Settings key pressed, turn on the machine When the following screen appears, upgrading is completedUpgrading Your Machine’s Software 192 Index Upgrading Your Machine’s Software / Index 194 118 Index 49, 68 English 882-U11 XD1534-051

Selecting stitching

Adjusting the stitch width

Adjusting the stitch length

Useful Functions

Automatically cutting the thread

Mirroring stitches