DeWalt LA200 instruction manual VEE Grooves, Long Cuts, Cove Cuts

VEE GROOVES

Cutting the vee groove demands much the same technique as the bead, except the skew is hinged straight into the workpiece without rotation (Fig. A27). Only one-half of the vee is made at a time, and one, two, or more cuts may be needed on each side to obtain the desired shape. As in all cutting with the skew, the bevel next to the cut must be used as a fulcrum. Be careful not to allow full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a run. You can also make Vee grooves with the toe of the skew, in the same manner as squaring an end.

LONG CUTS

Convex or straight-tapered surfaces usually require long cuts. With a convex surface, the method used in making the finishing cut is shown in Fig. A28. Turn the gouge on the tool rest so that it will be inclined toward the direction that it will move. The grind is tangent to the workpiece, and the center point of the cutting edge is the contact point with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and around the end of the curve, gradually raise the handle and swivel it to the right (Fig. A29) to maintain the tangency between the grind and the workpiece .

Fig. A27

Fig. A28

Figs. A30 and A31 show the cutting of a long taper with
	Fig. A29	Fig. A30
a skew. The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder
only at the start of the cut. Make the starting cut with the
heel (Fig. A30) to prevent the tool from digging into the
workpiece. As the tool moves down the workpiece, pull the
chisel back to allow the center point of the cutting edge to
cut. However, you can make the full taper with the heel. Be
careful not to cut too deeply at the center of the taper. The
direction of cutting is always downhill.

Fig. A31

COVE CUTS

Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is the most difficult to master. Make this cut with the gouge, where the size of the tool depends on the size of the cut. Push the gouge directly into the workpiece to remove the surplus stock (Fig. A32).

Fig. A32

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