395136-00,03,BT1500 6/22/04 9:05 AM Page 15
THIS SAW. Do not use any abrasive blades.
CROSSCUTS
NOTE: Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended, but can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence.
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 47 degrees left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp handle (4). Make the cut as described above.
BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel clamp knob (10) and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary to move the left side of the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 2 degrees right to 47 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 47 degrees right or left.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like
material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand will be within 6” of the blade, a clamp or fixture must be used.
Other convenient clamps such as spring, bar or
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
For best results, use an extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient
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