Selecting Needle and Fabric
For general sewing, use needle sizes 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing lightweight fabrics, so the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle thread. In the needle set, there is one each of sizes 11, 14, 16, and 18, and a blue needle. Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped stitches when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.
Special needles should be used on certain fabrics. A denim needle with a sharp tip effectively pierces dense fabrics such as denim and canvas. For topstitching, a special topstitching needle with a larger eye, accommodates heavier weight thread. Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede, allowing the thread to follow through the hole.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and
Always purchase a good quality thread. It should be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.
WEIGHT | FABRIC | TYPE OF NEEDLE | NEEDLE SIZE | ||
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Very Light | Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy | Universal | 9 (65) | ||
Net, Tulle | Ball Point | 9 (65) | |||
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| Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine, | Orange | 11 | (75) | |
| Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen, | Blue | 11 | (75) | |
| Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de Soie, |
| 12 | (80) | |
Light | Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, |
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Qiana |
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| Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot | Blue | 11 | (75) | |
| Ball Point | 11 | (75) | ||
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| Leather, Suede | Wedge Point Leather | 11 | (75) | |
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| Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin, |
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| Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Felt, | Red | 14 (90) | ||
| Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics |
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Medium | Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch |
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Velour, |
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| Ball Point | 14 | (90) | ||
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| Sweater Knits |
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| Leather, Vinyl, Suede | Wedge Point Leather | 14 | (90) | |
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| Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking | Denim | 16 | (100) | |
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| Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, | Purple | 16 | (100) | |
Heavy | Drapery Fabrics |
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| Leather, Suede | Wedge Point Leather | 16 | (100) | |
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| Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics | Green | 18 | (110) | |
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All | Topstitching for Special Finish | Topstitching | 11 | (75) | |
14 | (90) | ||||
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18